Last few days and still more exciting stuff!

Well, my last day of classes turned out to be really interesting. I had asked my conversation teacher about artesans and discovered only one lived in the area, so on Friday we went off for a long walk to another of the local communities. We were welcomed by the family and shown round the garden. They had lots of colourful statues and plant pots made of recycled tyres. 

I was shown the workshop where bowls and maracas were made. A fruit called 'hicora' was used. I have been unable to find out anything about it but he had a tree in his garden and a large pile of fruits in the workshop. They are very hard. They are cooked and the insides scooped out leaving a hard case which is then decorated to make the maracas. I made a couple of purchases which seemed to please the family but he wanted to make me a new wall hanging pot and promised to deliver it before I left. I wasn't sure this would happen, but some time in the night it was delivered to the security man! I took some photos and told them they would be on my blog, they posed and thought it great fun. It was another of those wonderful experiences meeting and talking to local people.

I think his tee shirt says, live your life and don't meddle with mine!

In the evening we had a local group, singing folk songs, who got us up dancing with them, which was great fun and a good last evening at the school.

Today I have travelled north to Matagalpa which is in the mountains. I have left the volcanoes behind. It is quite Bavarian looking here with chalet houses and farms and lovely views. And it is cooler at night. My hotel is comprised of little bungalows, mine has five windows which is quite a thrill after three weeks in a dark room! So I can lie in bed and watch the wildlife. It's actually on a coffee estate and we passed many cafe cooperatives as we neared the area. It looks more prosperous in this area. The restaurant has a deck overlooking the lake and lots of forest walks, some of which I explored this afternoon. One of the security guards followed me part way, maybe concerned I would get lost! They have good wine which is cold, and good food which is hot!. Having had lunch, I ordered a plate of cheese tonight and it was enough for a family! I am currently having hot chocolate which I think has been made Nicaraguan style. They grind and mix cacao with maize and cinnamon. It's actually very pleasant and not at all sickly. However the hotel has let me down on one thing. Because they are so environmentally friendly, it's still solar hot water, so my shower tonight was a luke warm dribble! They really don't do hot abundant showers here. As my driver said today, the country wants and needs tourism but people have to understand they are a developing country and they can't provide what people have at home.

The little chapel in the hotel grounds.

Today Sunday I have spent yet another day in the countryside and with the local community. It is so lovely to meet real local people and feel I can contribute to their lives, rather than the economy in general. Ernesto, my guide took me to el Chile, a community outside Matagalpa, where we first went to a coffee finca. He talked to me about the shade grown coffee, and need for sustainability; how by growing mixed crops, it is better for the soil and environment and gives the farmers more crops to sell. They are not then dependent on one product. We walked through the finca to Cierro El Chile, where there were spectacular 360 degree views. It was pretty steep.

After that we visited the textile cooperative, where the ladies had opened up especially for me. I learned about the weaving process, had a go on a loom, and made some purchases rounding it up to make a donation. Apparently most of these traditions were wiped out in the Somoza years as he owned the cotton plantations and sold the cotton for export, gaining wealth. But he considered these activities subversive, obviously to his pocket! In 1980s, someone started to mobilise the local women to start again and teach the younger generation. They now have a source of income for their families.

Whilst we were going through Matagalpa we saw the workers waiting to be offered jobs on the coffee fincas and later saw lorry loads of people on the roads. It is not secure work and appears to be cash in hand, with youngsters as young as 14 able to start work.
I had lunch with Ernesto, cooked by Carla, at her home in El Chile. It was a traditional meal of rice, frijoles, cheese, chicken with vegetables, and a milk tart, made with bread and no they. It was all delicious.

After that we briefly visited the town where we saw the cathedral and there was a celebration of the life of Ruben Dario, the poet.

There are also statues of the Sandanistas as the war with the contras took place in the mountains around here. Am now making the most of the last few hours in the warm sunshine sipping a cool drink! 

It will be very strange getting back to a normal routine without all of these exciting things filling every day. But it must have done me good as one of my American colleagues said she would miss me, a (in fact more than one said that), because it was good to meet someone who can just 'be' and not have to be flitting from one thing to another all the time! It's been lovely spending time with people who all do similar things, some travelling for several months at a time.

So what am I looking forward to- well a long hot shower is top of my list, a comfy arm chair and effective lighting, washing the few clothes I am bringing back in a washing machine. I gave a pile to the cleaning lady yesterday as my travel trousers really were too big this year and my white tee shirts will never be white again! And of course I am looking forward to catching up with everyone again.....planning the next trip and maybe some painting from the materials I have collected.

Final week and more new experiences!

This week is nearly over with an interesting weekend in Matagalpa to look forward to. A little bit more luxury will not be unwelcome, as will the opportunity for a chilled glass of wine and my own choice of food, that is not a complaint as the food here is good and healthy.
This week has surprisingly brought some more new experiences. I have been on the local microbús, which is a minibus, where they cram in as many passengers as possible and then drive like mad passing everything to pick up even more passengers to squeeze in! It's really cheap. I paid 10 cordobas, about 30p for a 15 minute ride to San Marcos, a little town that is a bit different with a few more facilities than here. 

Today I went to La Concha and back for 5 cordobas each way. It was quite an experience but I couldn't leave without having been on one. Today the ATM in the shop wasn't working due to a power cut, but fortunately the  bank was. We had big power cuts all day earlier in the week. Apparently it was out from Guatemala to Costa Rica for a short time, but out here all day. We were on solar power but were asked to use it sparingly. The solar power wouldn't boil a kettle and the kitchen staff were working in the dark. That is apparently quite common, as is the lack of running water from the taps in some houses.
San Marcos was really interesting and had a university, so I went to the university cafe which was quite smart with the best toilets I have found yet in Nicaragua. I didn't find a couple of public buildings that were there but I did find a  supermarket which actually sold nuts and raisins and a few more snacks. Because of the university it had more restaurants and cafes and was a bit smarter. I think I walked around all of it and the locals had come to recognise me by then.

On Monday we went to a local community for some cooking. We made empanadas, rosquillos and viajeras, all of which were little snacks made with maize flour. We worked outside but with a covered table and pieces of polythene to roll out the pastry, so all was hygenic. It was all out in a gigantic brick oven to bake. The oven is apparently used by the whole community.

Whilst it was cooking I went off exploring the community and the grounds of the finca to look at the crops. I met a couple of young Americans and we then met another local lady. I think her name was Papalita. She was very friendly and began showing us her crops. She had some avocado trees, so I explained my disappointment at not getting avocado in the restaurant. She promptly asked us to sit down and prepared avocado and tomato with salt and lime juice, which was delicious. 

Later I bought an avocado and took back to add to the next two days breakfast for a change. So that afternoon we had a bit of a feast! And yes that is the little room at the back and the kitchen above. But we watched her scrub the plate and knife with soap and water and the food all had its peel on so we were able to be careful what we ate.
Yesterday, Wednesday, I went with Allison to El Chocoyero, a local reserve, which others will be going to next week, after we have left. So we paid the extra for a private visit. 

We saw many species of birds there, including green parakeets, a native special, called chocoyeras. They roost in the cliff that towers over the reserve, leave at 06.30 a.m. and return at 5p.m. We saw their return, after a good and steep walk.  The guide was an excellent young man who had learnt his English through visitors and alongside the peace corps, when he was younger. He had also learned his extensive knowledge without formal training. It was really impressive.

 The reserve was situated 7 k off the main road, accessed by a dirt track with many holes! Our car was a rather battered vehicle with blacked out windows which we wound down with some difficulty, and a back door with a broken handle. He had to top something up under the bonnet before returning. That didn't inspire confidence. He clearly had no idea where he was going as he stopped at every local we passed to ask the way. But we arrived eventually deep in the forest having passed a number of communities, one with a church and secondary school.

What really surprises me is the number of rural communities there are living in fairly inaccessible places with no proper roads. I imagine this is why each has its own simple facilities. Shops do not feature highly as much produce is grown and there is no money for shopping. My teacher explained today that herson couldn't go to university at the moment as they couldn't afford the fare. I think I worked out it was about 15$ per week. 
Other than that the lessons are progressing and I have filled in more gaps and clarified a few things. I have had more spider visits including one with both big legs and a fat body just inside the door, and more of the fast flat ones. I am getting better at catching them with a plastic cup and paper but sometimes I have to draw the line and get help! I will endeavour not to bring any home; I have been shaking my clothes well as they have a habit of running into the corner where my clothes are hanging! That will be one thing I won't miss.....

An incident in La Concha

Well, I have just returned from a walk to La Concha where I witnessed a local incident. A very angry and drunk local, was being arrested by the police! One of the policeman had a near empty but very large bottle of spirits in his hand and three policeman were manhandling him into the back of a little camionetta. Then it looked as if they sat on him, whilst two more policemen got in the front and drove him away. I imagine he will wake up with a sore head tomorrow, and possibly in a cell. I am sure the locals would rather I had not seen it, but these things happen the world over.
It was interesting, as I had just visited the local church where I had seen the devout locals praying peacefully amongst the beautifully adorned statues of Christ  and the Virgin Mary. I am always full of admiration for people who can be so devout and in places such as this I wonder if they are praying for some improvement in their lives or giving thanks for small mercies. Either would be appropriate!
So that was Sunday afternoon in La Concha. This morning I spent reading and doing homework on the patio in the shade of the trees and banana plants, in the sunshine. 

I forewent the opportunity to walk, as I needed some catching up space, before more lessons tomorrow. It can be full on if you join all the activities. It is a bit difficult to read in the rooms in the evenings, as the light is poor other than the reading lamp over the bed. LED lights have not reached here although they are low energy. There is often a dip morning and evening and I think it is when the power switches from solar to the grid.
One of the students who is renting a house locally, a house that has been modernised, mentioned that he often has no running water for three days of the week and has to draw from the tank that is filled periodically by a tanker. He is very accustomed to cold showers as there is no way to heat water. In fact he described how he had bought a fridge so he could have cold beer. Well you have to get your priorities right.

Yesterday we had a good day out visiting the Volcán Mombacho. It is a national park and therefore foreign visitors pay a higher entry fee. The 20$ seemed a lot but then why shouldn't we pay more for the privilege, as tourists can clearly afford it, and it will contribute to the maintenance and protection of an important habitat. The biggest problem was that the receptionist had to fill in by hand a complex form for each one of us. At least she didn't want our passport number which is a common requirement, but I have been told before that they do nothing with it so just make it up! I suppose it looks official.......
The fee included a ride to the top in a truck, just as well as it was very steep. At the top I joined Allison for the shortest of the walks around the crater. We had been lucky in getting the last two seats on the minbus, the others not arriving until we had nearly finished the walk.
The summit was shrouded in cloud, quite normal, and was clothed in cloud forest. This is an old and inactive crater, unlike Masaya which is bare and full of bubbling magma. The trees were laden with bromeliads and orchids, it was very rich flora. 

The views were interesting!

I got the bus down to the half way point where I visited the shop and restaurant of the coffee finca, situated there. It was a good move as I had one of the best coffees of my trip and a pleasant lunch. Whilst there, we were surrounded by an influx of youngsters who started chatting with us. They were US college students who were on a volunteering visit with an organisation called Medi Life. They had been going to clinics and hospitals assisting the doctors and finding out more about the local health issues, the young lady who chatted most was planning to study medicine. What a wonderful opportunity and contribution. I sat in the sun with lovely views, reading and watched a coffee worker raking the beans to dry them, in the sun. 

From here I walked down the bottom half of the trail, where I got a cold drink and was invited to join a group of Japanese for their lunch. I declined as I had already eaten but they had a little packable stove and had prepared a meal of sushi and noodles and all of the trimmings, it looked and smelt delicious!

In the evening we also saw a possum that was eating from the bañas that had been out in the tree for the birds. The cats and dogs also eat the bananas!

What a lot of wonderful experiences this weekend has offered. So now to my final week, where we have many new students joining us and a number have left for home or to continue their travels.

Second week at La Mariposa

All progressing well and am now doing lots of revision in my grammar class. My conversation class has been varied; one morning we walked through the grounds and up the hill to see the views and on Thursday we walked to Paulette's ( the owner) finca where she keeps even more rescued dogs and cats and grows lots of butterfly friendly plants, just like an English country garden.

Paulette with one of my teachers, Elisa.

The cats and dogs were a bit preoccupied as it was the day of the vet's visit and they were all having their injections. A certain amount of cajoling and capturing went on! Paulette told me some of her story of purchasing the land and moving here. She previously came out with an aid organisation but her recent move was only about 10 years ago.
The Mariposa language school and its philosophy
I have visited San Juan a couple of times, one in the rain. Well at least I returned in the rain and my umbrella  hadn't helped much! I noticed no one else was walking, they just sheltered somewhere and waited!
I have also been to La Concha a couple of times and found a little shop where you can buy various snacks and also cool things from the fridge such as yoghurt, and cold drinks. I sat in the sun on Monday with a cold capuccino and packet of cakes!

Street vendors have in La Concha.

I have joined some of this week's trips but on a couple of aternoons, have just done my local walks, homework, reading and washing. I have found a Spanish app that sends me daily exercises, which I have got quite hooked on!  And my borrowed Pilates mat means I can do my exercises each morning.
Yesterday's trip to Managua was interesting although the Palzzio Nacional was closed in preparation for a ceremony celebrating the presidency. Therefore they were painting the inside of the museum, setting up stages and generally getting organised. However we saw memorials to the Sandinistas,the old cathedral that was damaged in the earthquake, and other important buildings. We visited a couple times of areas of the lakefront, one of which had a model of Managua before the earthquake, ( most buildings did not survive) an old aeroplane, since most Nicaraguans never fly and are fascinated to see it. We also visited a viewpoint and another political museum housed around the old prison, home of activities it's probably best not to dwell on.

We also saw some very expensive metal trees that have been erected throughout the city to make it more attractive to visitors. These are not popular due to the cost, the use of power and the lack to of contribution to the environment. Let's hope they encourage more spending so the population can benefit in the end!

On Tuesday we visited a couple of artesan workshops in Masaya, one a hammock maker ( too big to put in my suitcase) and an artesan who works with recycled wood. 

Following that we went to a market which I was pleased to escape from due to the heat and the rather claustraphobic organisation of the goods and stalls.

The most interesting part was the shoemakers, who when they saw me taking photographs encouraged me back to take another!

Today I had my next history talk so now have the history up to 2006
We have had some turnover of students; I have spent a little time with Allison from San Francisco, with whom I had a rather nice cocktail on the lakefront yesterday afternoon before we returned from Managua.

Tomorrow is an outing to Mombacho volcano and the national park.

A very different new year weekend.

We spent Saturday at Lake Apoyo, a lake that was formed in a volcanic crater, so the water is clear and warm. It took us around an hour to arrive so we were there quite early, around 9.30. It was a beautiful day, but a bit windy, although a warm wind. We had a day pass to go into the gardens of a little hotel with bungalows going down to the beach where there was a jetty and a raft. There was a bar, sun loungers and hammocks and also kayaks.

I was a bit unsure about going, as enforced relaxation isn't always easy, so I packed books, paints and costume. It turned out to be a great day. I swam out to the jetty in the lake, then along the shore line, then read. When the bar opened I went for a coffee, not having had a good coffee recently. At this point I got chatting to one  the other students, an American, who has attended a number of schools through Central America. He described staying with a family in Honduras where his room was a lean to on the outside of the house and the only place to wash was the river. I don't think I will go that far! 

Water here is a precious commodity and people pay 3$ for a barrel of potable water, collecting and using rainwater for general tasks. Last night the house we went to for the party was a large and probably well appointed house for this area but they had no running water in the toilet at present. I had to take a bucket of water with me to flush it.

So on Saturday, I had a great coffee then fish for lunch with a tasty and cold glass of wine. What a treat. I chatted with another student from San Francisco who is also quite well travelled and a bird watcher. This was all followed by some painting and reading, and for 25$ I felt I had had a full and yet relaxing day in good company.

In the evening we visited one of the homestay homes, where we were treated to supper and dancing. The house was very interesting with a small kitchen, and an outside area where the sinks were and a fire which also seems to be used for cooking. We sat in the front area which is open with gates across and is used for hanging washing, relaxing and storing cars and bicycles. The lady got us all dancing after dinner to Latin American music, and before we left they attempted rather unsuccessfully to light the 'guy' . This is a new year tradition signifying the end of the old year. There were a few small explosions but not much more. Someone who was with a family at midnight said the street looked like a war zone!

Today I opted for a walk in the morning, which turned out to be quite challenging. We hiked up the mountain, where there were great views and passed through a very small community, complete with church and school, only 35 families. 

We also saw a library which is also part of a community project. Various countries such as Japan, Switzerland, Luxembourg, had contributed to projects to bring telegraph communications, water and some surface to the road so the water delivery truck can get there.

Family preparing their bean crop.

Their pigs.

The little church which was full of people.

 Apparently there are a lot of environmental problems due to lack of infrastructure but now there are ecologists, advising and educating and helping to put things in place. It has been one of those countries, where in the past, investment has not benefitted the community, only the investing companies who have taken their profits out of the country, not at all helpful.

Then we went down into the valley through the jungle and arrived at a coffee finca, where we saw the beans drying, plus howler monkeys in the trees. In all we were out nearly four hours. So this afternoon there was a lot of resting, including the dogs which have all been curled up on various chairs. It has been pretty hot.

After evicting two spiders from my room, one which ran out of my bag of washing, I did my homework and went off for a walk around San Juan. I went out just as a local bus was emptying of passengers. So I walked along the road talking to a local, dressed as if he had been to a celebration and carrying a picture of Christ. As far as I could gather he had been to some kind of celebration in San Marcos which will come here next and appears to circulate around the pueblos! Later on a young man called out 'goodbye' clearly trying to practice his English. Here they say Adiós when they meet you for some strange reason. The people are more than prepared to chat.  I then set about some shopping. I just fancied a little treat. Finding shops is interesting as most are just part of a house with a little grill at the front, so you have no idea what they sell, so you just ask. I am getting the hang of this, and font care if I look a bit stupid. With my battered hat and my travel gear I could only be a foreigner. The local women wear white bright clothes and are generally well presented, although many are pretty tubby as they get older.

The best I could find for a treat was a snickers bar at around £1 and a chocolate wafer biscuit. Plus more apples and some grapes which cost about £3, so obviously imported. The grapes will be dipped in boiling water and wiped with antiseptic.  I decided against the smoothie, having identified banana and milk as the safe option, but then was unsure how hygenic  the implements might be. Yes the diet has had to go out of the window as food is prepared for us. It is all very healthy but I do feel the need for some treats in between meals. Sunday lunch today was grated carrot salad, red beans and potato salad with some boiled egg. In the evening we sometimes have a small pudding. Most meals include rice. Breakfast is fruit and granola and something cooked. Today it was a small bowl of porridge. It will be nice to have a little treat in a hotel for a couple of days before I come home.

So am now relaxing on upstairs balcony and wondering what supper will be. I won't be indulging in the warm cheap wine in the fridge that is barely cool! Unless I'm desperate.....