Wednesday, 6 September 2017

Final couple of days.

The trip is nearly over but still we see even more interesting things. Today started sunny but by the time we arrived at Helderberg nature reserve clouds had formed around the top of the mountain and strong cold gusts arrived. My wet weather gear added the necessary additional layer as I had got used to doing without my thermal layer for the last week!



The reserve is a protected area of Fynbos terrain, some areas, newer than others and some needing to burn. In these area the proteas had grown tall and some of the other plants were getting crowded out. Our guide explained how all the seeds waiting in the soil just needed the fire to germinate them and restore the balance. This however has to be done in a controlled way as it is another area where expensive properties have been built, some with thatched roofs. This is a reserve that has been restored to it's natural state from farmlsnd and has been increased, so a positive story.




And we saw an orchid!

 On the way down,  I strode out and had time for a hot chocolate to warm up before we moved on.

Our next stop was the Verglegan Wine Estate. This was all very grand with beautiful cream buildings, thatched, some new but some from 17th Century. It is now owned by the Anglo American Company, and there appears to be extensive investment in the grounds to preserve the estate for the people.




New trees are being planted and two Ghinko trees from Hiroshima have just been planted. The views across the formal gardens to the mountains were spectacular. The agapanthus were planted in waves of colour so that they look like the sea, but I need to return in December to see them in bloom.

However, before embarking on the garden tour we had lunch, very good, fish or steak and creme brulee, accompanied by some wine, courtesy of our guides. So it will be another night when we don't need supper.


We visited the octagonal garden with a newly planted rose garden and wide borders and the protected camphor trees. We also saw the oak tree visited by generations of English royalty, so now I need to look out for any evidence of the acorns being planted in royal garden and parks. We saw the owls in the camphor trees too.

 The Reflection garden was lovely and I managed to sneak back in for some quiet whilst others were exploring the 400 year old oak.

 However, I was called upon for a nymph like pose when we got to the Yellow wood tree.


Us six women went out for a final meal at the local wine bar;  

what great fun we have had together.The final morning was wet, but we had a late start so a little shopping was possible before we visited the botanical gardens.  Here we saw more proteas, an ancient and primitive tree that never sheds it leaves and we found some packets of seed to try back home.



 We called in at the Spier winery en route to the airport where more delicious food was on offer.  Mine was a beetroot salad.  
 And more garden ideas were on offer.  

This has been a good trip with a great group of people.


Tuesday, 5 September 2017

Stellenbosch, the final frontier!


I left my sea view room in Hermanus clutching my Fynbos bouquet which is now arranged in yet another waste paper basket in the Stellenbosch hotel. The hotel is centrally situated and appears to be quite prosperous with a university and a wealth of wine bars and restaurants. The clothes shops are quite upmarket too. There is some interesting street sculpture around and I found the market yesterday just before closing time, although it was all tourist goods.


Yesterday was an exceedingly hot day and when we arrived at the Harold Porter botanical gardens there was a warm wind blowing down the mountains. It felt like walking into an oven. It is known as the berg wind.
The gardens were at Betty' s Bay, not far from Hermanus.  There appeared to have been a lot of random development along the coast, some of which was not at all attractive.  The gardens were lovely as they showed the range of habitats, were very well maintained and were set into the mountainside. 



I set off on the walk to the waterfall but in fact took a side turn up the mountain towards a further waterfall. It was great terrain with spectacular views and tranquillity.  I just kept an eye on my watch; if I don't get where I hope to be by the halfway point in time, I know I can go back! I was also on the look out for snakes but only a bird crossed my path.

 I understand that in winter the snakes aren't usually seen, but I'm sure they might like an airing on a good day. At the kiosk the information board indicated over 100 snakes but only 15 types had been known to kill; well I suppose that cuts the odds down a bit!  I found a map board and was able to plan my route, rejoining the path to the other falls.


After enjoying the walk and the views, I fought my way into the loos which were barred to stop the baboons getting in. Then I joined others for a coffee by which time the wind was quite fierce but still hot. 



A very large baboon crossed the lawn not far away and we were warned to keep our distance.
From here we drove to Elgin through wine country, although on closer inspection some if the trees have been fruit trees. Here we visited a private garden on a farm/nursery. This was a very interesting mix as alongside apple blossom and snowdrops, gazanias and strelitzias were in bloom. 


The owner was very enthusiastic  and showed us around, and gave us time to wander. Then we were given a quiche and salad lunch, fruit tart and tea before moving on. It looked as though this could be somewhere to stay and I expect would be fun, but a bit rustic, very different to the following day.
We stopped at a rather strange farm shop with large scarecrows, a bit of an attraction I believe. They had interesting items for sale, lots of dried goods, fruit and preserves but nothing that I thought both portable and interesting. 
Then we headed to the Stellenbosch hotel in the city of the same name. This is quite different to anywhere else we have visited. It is a city with old Dutch style buildings, some several hundred years old. Most of the buildings are painted  white. The hotel seems very professional with a smart restaurant which us six lone females visited for a lovely sociable meal last night. We tried the wine from Elgin which was great.
Today I thought I had become confused as I was ready to visit a vineyard garden but it transpired that I had missed the announced change. Not totally unexpected as if you are not in the right place at the right time, that can happen and I often head off on my own!
We actually visited The Old Nectar Garden created by Una van see Spuy, and were shown around by her son. The garden is of an old English style with archway, roses, camelias, borders and pools.  

Una had died at nearly 100 and had been active in the garden until the end, writing several books. Having cleared out my bookshelf recently,  I resisted the urge to buy one. Wandering pathways led all around the gardens which were set among the mountains. It began to rain and the damp climate obviously kept the garden green. 



We were shown around one of the amazingly luxurious cottages and then invited into the mansion for fruit cake and coffee.  This would be a lovely place to stay.

From here we went to Banylonstoren, an old farm complex with vineyards which was built over 300 years ago.  The head gardener, a delightful young woman, took us around this huge garden set out in areas containing different types of plants. The whole complex was designed to be environmentally friendly with complementary planting and to be productive to supply the restaurants. We sampled a range of plants with supposed health benefits!



So there were fruit trees in areas, some as espaliers, herbs, hedges of cumquats, a garden of prickly pears, barrier planting to protect the plants from external effects of farmer's spraying. And the most delightful stories were interwoven into the garden's development. 



We were lucky to sample a delicious lunch of salad and meat pie followed by malva pudding and ice cream, (yet again). And to complete the visit, there were some lovely little shops selling things produced from the garden.
In the evening we went out for a snack and glass of wine, and when I couldn't decide which to have the waiter brought me samples. Then my companions just tried to make me look like a candidate for Alcoholics Anonymous!


And I keep telling them that a couple of glasses at the weekend is all I usually manage!