On to Riga.

We left Vilnius on another beautiful day, heading for our first stop at Trakai, a former capital city.  Here both Tartar and Karaim communities have lived. We visited one of the castles in the lake, restored during Russian times.

The setting was superb and we approached by a bridge. 

The main castle housed many ancient artefacts from fourteenth century, including coins, personal items and furnishings. We learnt about the customs of the two ethnic groups and how the small Karaim community now exhibited weaknesses due to intermarriage in an attempt to preserve their way of life. I tried a kibin with my coffee, a form of Cornish pastie! A Karaim speciality.

Apparently these interiors have been used for filming historical dramas, including the Elizabeth 1 series. I would have thought we had enough castles. Interestingly huge areas of Lithuania were used to film the BBC series of War and Peace!

Our tour guide talked most of the way along the route but I tuned out and snoozed at times like everyone else! However, I gather Lithuania is very advanced with laser development and is also developing solar power so as not to be reliant on Russia. It is certainky a connected country snd internet is good. They also have developed Vilnius to be a green city thus protecting the environment.

Foraging mushrooms is a popular autumn activity.!

Our lunch stop was a beautiful mansion, Bistrampolis. 

Apparently many of these estates were abandoned when Lithuanians left during Russian rule. When this ended the families had settled elsewhere and donated these to the state. Now some are hotels and conference centres.

We had a delicious lunch served in a private room, we all had borsch, I had fish with lovely vegetables, then the traditional Apple pie. Well that set me up for another snooze!

I could have spent a few days enjoying the ambience and walking in the countryside.

From here we headed on through the border to Latvia, so unspectacular, I missed It! But of course we are in the Schengen zone so no one has asked for a passport since we left UK. 

We arrived at the hotel and said goodbye to Agnes and our driver. I am akways amazed at thise people whonscuttle off quickly without giving a thank you tip! She had been excellent, but my brain just couldn't take in  all the information. After a very quick settle in, I went to explore the old town of Riga, armed with my map.  It is another attractive cobbled area, full of beautiful old buildings and restaurants too of course! 

 The house of the Blackheads!

  I expect we will visit some in detail tomorrow but I got a great view of the sunset at the bridge!

Our hotel here is large and impersonal and I imagine every room is the same. I have a view if a glazed atrium and a little bit of a back street. The bathroom is tiny, it reminds me of what Agnes told us about the Kruschovian flats! But I did get some washing dry overnight. Breakfast thus morning was a bit of a bun fight.  Buffets are always difficult when you are eating alone. It took me forever to find where everything was and I didn't find the scrambled egg until I had finished.  But tomorrow will be better! Just far too many people for someone who likes a quiet breakfast.

Exploring Vilnuis

I started the day with a lovely breakfast of fresh local salmon, and salad,  a good choice as there weren't many veg apparent later!

 I have learnt a lot about Vilnuis today, that the city was created in 1323, that it had a king for a short while and otherwise has been a dukedom, combined with Poland and part of the Soviet Union, although they do not seem at all fond of Russia! And eventually became an independent republic.

It has had a rich mix of cultures, German/Lutheran, Jewish, Polish and Lithuanean Catholics, Slavonic/Russian/Ukranian. It has been a country that has changed in shape and size and in its rulers, having suffered severely at the hands of the Russians.  In the old town there are many gothic and neo classical buildings, but under Russian domination some buildings were destroyed as the streets were too narrow for their tanks!

There is every denomination of church you can imagine although we saw no mosques today.  However it was known to be the last pagan country too. Under Russian rule some churches were destroyed and others reassigned to re educate the populace, particularly under Stalin. From my room this morning I could hear beautiful singing coming from the Russian orthodox church across the road, it was Sunday morning of course!

We began by walking around the market square and up to the Gates of Dawn.

 We then visited an area of the city that is actually a separate republic and has it's own rather amusing constitution.

This was followed by a road trip to reach the Cathedral and Dukes ( of Lithuania)  Palace where we spent some time seeing archaeological remains of the palace complex, works of art and history and finishing with views of the city from the tower, which was magnificent.

 En route we saw the church of St Ann and St Bernadine, a most beautiful brick  built gothic church.

 Excavated tiles in the dual palace.

Lithuanian tapestries, recovered and purchased by the government.

At times we had to cross the road between the marathon runners, which had caused parts of the city to be inaccessible today.

We then visited the Museum of liberation and freedom, formerly the Museum of Genocide, where we visited the deep dark complex of cells for interrogation and imprisonment which shockingly were used by the KGB until 1991 and by both Russians and Germans in different periods.  I declined the invitation to visit the execution chamber. It had been depressing enough. Instead I read about the bishop who had withstood many punishments and deprivation to live til his 90s only to be eradicated by slow insidious poisoning, rather reminiscent of recent events in Salisbury.

We finished our tour at a Lithuanian restaurant where we had information and demonstrations, and sampled a typical meal of charcuterie,  borsch, cepelinai, (a potatoes mix stuffed with minced pork and shaped like a zepelin, hence the name),and Apple and pear pie. I tried the gooseberry wine, dry and crisp, not too bad! It was a late lunch, so I had a swim on my return before a little saunter round Vilnius for the evening. No more food will be required!

I walked to the Cathedral and a couple of the churches and managed to get an internal peak at one of them.

I called at a bookshop and bought a couple of unusual notebooks, although the sales person could not tell me what the writing said- I presume, shopping list or don't forget! However I think I could translate this sign!

And what a pity this shop was closed!

I think the funniest thing I saw today was the three people clearing up after the marathon events. One had a blower, one had a broom and one had a bag, but there was no leader, so the rubbish got blown, the sweeper missed it and the bagman just stood around looking puzzled!

On to new pastures-visiting some of the Baltic Cities

Other than a week in Crete in May, I have only travelled within the UK since returning from mexico.  I am about to embark on a tour to the Baltic Capitals, starting in Vilnus, then on to Riga, Tallinn and Helsinki.  My last visit to this general area was many years ago travelling on a river boat from St Petersburg to Moscow.  Not only am I more widely travelled now but there have been many changes in these countries, so I imagine it will be less 'different' than if I had done it 20 years ago!

Arrived Vilunis, having travelled all day via Helsinki. The second part was in a smallish plane. Had met one of the group in the queue at Heathrow so we breakfasted together and found our way through Helsinki airport together. There we had an interesting experience finding the loos. The arrows pointed the wrong way! It was a pretty quick skip through Helsinki, then the worrying announcement that the flight was overbooked. When we arrived one person was missing; perhaps they didn't manage to get on.

I am in an adjoining building in the Radisson hotel Vinuis, so need a map to find my room, lots if twists and turns. But it is a magnificent building, especially when lit up at night.

I got organised everythjng info my daypack, clones por the morning, but couldnt find the hairdryer ( until I asked reception). I decided I wasn't hungry and it was too late to shower and change, so changed my shoes and went out for a walk. I found a supermarket with water at a fraction of the hotel price and a yoghurt to eat with a few nuts, enough til morning. The town was alive with people, music and activity but of course it was Saturday night. I found a little bar, cafe de Paris for a celebratory glass of wine.  This all feels quite easy after my normal adventures, and although the language looks impossible, I am sure some words sound recognisable.

Off for a city your this morning.

Return to Havana

We left Trinidad  and drove through the countryside,  lush green countryside with mountains which is the main area of sugar cane cultivation.we stopped at an old hacienda where there was a tower to survey the surrounding countryside. I climbed to the top to see the views. However we had to run the gauntlet of the stalls, but they were selling beautiful embroidery,  some with coloured embroidery and some with drawn threadwork and whitework, called margarita stitch. I stopped to talk but don't really need more. One person suggested I give away some clothes to make room. I said I had already done that!
Our main stop today was the Che Guevara mausoleum, where we saw the tombs of the revolutionaries and the flame. He is a national hero and the aspiration is for children in school to be like him, following high principles. I remember reading the New Society magazine when I was a grammar school and being inspired by the story. The famous portrait was on the cover. I have resisted making a Che purchase, it seems a bit materialistic and not in keeping with his anti imperialist philosophy. On the  coach we have watched a documentary about his life,  we have also seen one about the special period when the Russians withdrew and the Americans blockaded Cuba and the story of how they returned to being a rural economy producing their own food in an environmentally friendly way. I would have liked to have seen more of this. They also reduced drastically their dependence on oil. This is certainly a nation that has coped with adversity.
We stopped for lunch at Santa Clara in a hotel and I managed to get a quick look around the town square  with its theatre and grand buildings. I also managed to check in for my flight and got a bit excited about an upgrade, only to find it was only available on the second leg from Schipol, not much to gain there!
We had one stop in the afternoon in a cafe that had some amusing sayings displayed. Andy gave us a rose and chocolate, because yesterday was World women's day. I said no one had given me roses and chocolates since Albert died.
Then we had some  music and had to learn the words of Guanatamera, we have heard this throughout Mexico and Cuba, but apparently it is significant for Cubans  and was made famous by Pete Seeger- didn't know that!
We are now arriving back in Havana to visit Revolution Square and the National  hotel, then a group meal. Looks like I have to give thanks to our driver in Spanish. This time tomorrow I should be awaiting take off.
We went out to eat again as Andy had not been around yesterday evening. We arrived st the restaurant and had to wait outside. Any tried to sort out the reservation but we ended up sitting on separate tables. I had been volunteered yo give a vote of thanks in Spanish to Jorge  our driver. Some went on to a show afterwards. I went around the local streets in search of a hot chocolate but failed completely. Similarly I failed to find tea at the airport on Saturday.
On Saturday I visited the Museum of two capes, which focussed on Cuban European history. It is a beautiful modern museum using a lot of technology.  I then had coffee and waited for Allison, we finished our holiday with a vintage card ride in a 1949 Chevrolet.
Then it was off to the airport for the long trip home.

On to Trinidad our last stop.

This wasn't a very long journey, and we stopped at a lovely rural restaurant en route. It as quute a hot day so the group opted to leave the walk until later in the afternoon. That was ok but it meant the museums were closed by the time we had done that. I went out and found the bank and had a walk around the newer part near to our house. I also called at the tourist office  and discovered one of the optional tours offered was not available as it was too distant. Will have to feed that back. This time I am in the house with the Australian woman, Mary. There doesn't seem to be anyone living here which is strange and the lady in charge is the daughter in law of the owner who lives along the  road. At least there is a drinks fridge on the ground floor where you can buy water and juices. My room is quite small and there's not much space around the two beds.  This time the decor is green.  The bathroom is the same. It overlooks the street but it wasn't too noisy last night. It's just a little side street with houses and a pizza place on the corner.  Later I saw a group of young people sitting on the corner of the street. I was asked for shampoo so I returned to get one of my bags of goodies. She seemed very pleased.
The house also has a roof terrace and you can see the sea in the distance,  it's a bit far to walk, but the coach will take us tomorrow.
We met at 4pm and walked to the historical centre. I'm a bit shocked at the amount of handholding some people need. They seem unable to read a map and terrified of getting lost. Later in the evening Alison and I both got a bit confused and walked around the block sorting out road names and being helped by a local.  We eventually thought we were ok and parted company at the pizza place on the corner only to find it was the wrong one. So I had to head further down the street with the little card in my hand checking the addresses. I had confused the house number with the previous night's accommodation.
Our historical walk took us to the old centre where we saw the Spanish houses, the museums and galleries  and the churches.  There are a lot of restaurants and music venues. Apparently Trinidad was vacated when Cienfuegos was developed, and later preserved under UNESCO protection as a historical monument.
Alison and I wandered through the market where I picked up some embroidery and later, after an internet visit to the square, I visited the bookshop and picked up some poetry and history books then found a bar where I had tea and a biscuit and Alison had a cocktail before returning back home. I finished the day with a fruit juice and Pringles on the terrace and an early night.
Contrary to my expectations there was no noise last night, until this morning when the calls of various delivery people could be heard through the shutters, and the trotting of the horses and carts. I discovered my shower head had no fixing, so it was an army style shower but at least the water was hot. Our host provided a lovely breakfast on the terrace and chatted away.  It would have been pretty hopeless without Spanish. I left at about 9am and visited the square, then the museum, which provided some history and displayed scenes of a period house. Next I went to the archaeological museum where I got further background information.  It amazes me that we all went through similar early development, but that the process of being conquered completely alters and depresses what comes later. In this museum, I spent a while talking to a local embroiderer. They do a style of whitework and drawn threadwork here. I shared my work and the lady was most interested.  I had a coffee stop although the cappuccino on the outside menu was not available,  perhaps to tempt you inside!
Opposite was a lovely little shop, so I tried on a couple of crocheted items and bought both. This precipitated another trip to the bank. When I arrived there was a huge queue by the door. So I asked if the ATMs were working  and was told, yes. However the first one cancelled my transaction and the sign by the machine indicated there might be a technical fault with the banking system. I was just going through alternative options in my mind when someone used the neighbouring machine successfully. So I followed suit and eureka, I now have cash.
Then I retraced my steps to the historic centre and on to explore the less touristy areas in the barrios, which was very interesting with great views.  Here I gave away all my excess goods from my rucksack, making for some happy faces amongst the mothers and children.  So many things are not available here, money is in short supply and choice is just not available. I wound my way back to the centre, although many streets were not on the map. I have found an ice cream parlour for lunch and have had a great cappuccino, yoghurt and biscuit and fruit juice for under £3. I am now experiencing the Cuban lack of respect for your personal space. There has clearly been a delivery and as my chair is  in the middle of the shortest route from the delivery to the store cupboard, the delivery is past my chair, very closely! And the lady who mopped the floor has just emptied the bucket immediately behind my chair too. I would not complain, but if I did, I think they would fail to understand my perspective. All very amusing if you take the flexible view.
I now have a couple of hours before we go to the beach. By that time, I can accept being with the group again, I think! Then we have a final meal. I had thought about a ride in the carriages but the tour company is against animal exploitation and I don't think the horses look in good  condition.
Managed to fit in a back massage for 9 CUC, about £7 which was finished off with some kind of vibrator whivh made my feet tickle. ! Then we all went to Ancon beach. Alison and I found a sunbed under an umbrella and I went in search of an ice cream. The beach bar had none but sent me towards the hotel. This turned out to be Butlins, Cuba or something called Club Amigo. It was apparent that it had all kinds of activities, several restaurants and was full of sun seekers of all ages. The building looked to be from the Russian era, concrete, utilitarian but now painted yellow and blue. However I got good ice cream, and used their facilities and returned to the beach for a swim and some relaxation.
In the evening we had a group meal at a seafood restaurant but with a new guide as ours had to return home for family reasons. He was great fun and had everyone in stitches on the way back as he taught us how to do Cuban dances on the coach, highly illegal I am sure.
This morning we had another lovely breakfast and our host gave us a little gift and there were lots of farewell hugs. The people here are very friendly. While we were awaiting the bus I asked a couple of chaps about the bird they had hung up on the post in a cage. The others wanted to know and so I asked. It was just taking in the sun.
I walked along to the street market and chatted to some chaps painting and selling. They were all quite cheeky and I had various offers of having my house painted or a Chico to take me to the beach! He asked me to take a photo. I said I'm off to Havana and UK tomorrow. Am not sure what would have happened if I had stayed a further night!