I left the Quebec hotel by taxi to the station, thinking I had allowed plenty of time. I had no sooner settled into the business lounge with a couple of other people, and made myself a cup of tea, than we were told the first taxi had arrived. So we were all delivered to Sainte Foy, to await the Montreal to Halifax train. A couple from New Zealand were amongst my travelling companions and the wife spent ages faffing with her seat belt making an awful fuss. Then asking her husband where her bag was. They had been travelling as long as me and had several more weeks to go. I hope he had plenty of patience! The other person was an Australian. She seemed pretty calm and collected. We had a very long time to wait, and there was no cafe, no business lounge, just a couple of vending machines! But at least some charging points for the phone and Wi-Fi, giving me an opportunity to plan my next days and catch up on communications. All very challenging as my home phone is operating on limited applications, and the back up one has little memory and so I can't add applications. But then I have my tablet, so am juggling between them. I was however getting very tired as the train departure was not due to around 11pm. At one point it was delayed. Finally the announcement was made; the train would come in and pick up the economy passengers first, then would move forward for the sleeping passengers to board. The trains are very long and there's a short piece outside the station that is lit. Meanwhile the train staff went though all the arrangements and safety procedures with us inside the building.
When we boarded, I discovered my cabin for two was only big enough for two using the top bunk, needing to be slim, economical with luggage and very friendly ! Also, I had a washroom with loo and small basin, no shower, as I had expected. The attendant was very apologetic and gave me a shower bag with toiletries and a towel and took me three carriages down to show me the shower cubicle. Just what I had hoped to avoid given the substantial supplement I had paid. I have to say the Ocean was in no way comparable to the Canadian. It is older and less professional in its presentation. Also all the sleeping passengers had access to the panoramic car , bar and lounge, making it quite difficult as there wasn't a lot of space.
My little bedroom was an exercise in economic use of space, but I only had a rucksack with toilet bag, pyjamas and change of essentials. I headed to the bar for a hot chocolate and was given a welcome glass of sparkling wine. Then headed several cars back to my cabin, where I made a brave attempt at sleeping whilst being rocked and juggled. I awoke around 6.30 having put my watch forward another hour and got to the showere before anyone else. Next, back to the bar end for a d.i.y. continental breakfast, then the day was spent walking forward 8 coaches to find Wi-Fi, or back 4 for refreshments and the lounge or watching the world go by. Not such friendly people on this journey and some tour groups wearing name badges!
As we journeyed north and into the Nova Scotia Peninsula, I followed the journey on the map. Places like Mocton, Bathurst Amhurst, Springhill ( Pete Seeger song about the mine disaster), names I recognised but now will have more significance.
We passed by lots of water, so close at some points, the train had to slow down. Apparently the frozen sea in the winter erodes the land under the track. We were told great white sharks had been seen up here, result of global warming. But in winter this us deep cold territory. The temperatures now are chilly. If its sunny the wind has quute an edge. It's as if on 1st October someone flipped a switch, and that's what locals say. And Autumn definitely tells you winter is on its way.
As we journeyed there was more evidence of the changing colours of the trees, with fiery red maples. Some 9f these views passed by in a beautiful blur, difficult to capture from a moving train. So many isolated spots it woukd be great to capture, to paint, to absorb. I've heard Prince Edward Island is beautiful, remote and very relaxed. Something to consider.
We passed occasional small properties out of the towns in most isolated locations. But here some were large and well kept.
Running an hour late we finally arrived into Halifax, where I collected my luggage after a wait and joined the taxi line. This took some time. Apparently the taxis had left when the train didn't arrive. They had other work to go to, money to earn. The station attendant rang several companies for more. Eventually I got to the front of the queue, or so I thought, knowing full well other people had pushed ahead. Some knowing the system had called a taxi company directly, I just waited patiently and eventually got to the hotel at about 7.45pm. When an American couple who arrived after me pushed in the taxi queue I said ' oh who's having this one?'. They said 'We are.' To which I replied, 'Funny, no matter when I arrive, I always seem to be at the back of the queue, I obviously haven't got well enough developed elbows'. They went off mumbling to themselves! And I knew that getting cross would only upset me. And I'm on holiday....
The hotel room is fine, had everything I needed except a hairdryer. An empty bag hanging on the door but no dryer. Perhaps someone took it home? Now I'd made do on the train, but not in a smart hotel, so I called housekeeping, no answer. So I went to reception who had one sent up. The only problem was that this morning it didn't work. So it was another call to housekeeping. This time I got a brand new one, but I'd had to dress hastily so as not to get caught with a towel round be when they knocked. Well I slept so well, I didn't hear Patrick's call. Mind you I did tell him we were an hour ahead. So I did that this morning and went for a late breakfast. A great buffet but the overzealous staff cleared my table whilst I was getting my omelette, including my maps with my day plan. They were so apologetic, and the manageress came to check I had received an apology.
As I had arrived late, this morning was my first attempt at orientation, but that proved easy. Halifax is not very big. In my meanderings I found the old burial ground about 300 years old, with boards telling stories of the early history and the conflicts between the English and America- of course that was pre USA, when Canada was the Northern territories. We did do a lot of meddling in the colonial days, not a lot to be proud of in hindsight! I soon found the boardwalk, having side tracked down one or two streets to look at buildings of interest. I even found a little shop doing bra fitting service and another looking like it sold things for the dark arts!
Called the old brewery but now a collection of shops and restaurants.
Then I found a plan of the board walk and soon picked up a better map. The whole harbour front has been developed and I soon saw why. Two large cruise ships were docked and obviously the town wants the trade. Lots of people were ambling up and down and getting on ex London buses with people wearing kilts as guides. Some came into the annual exhibition of local art, based on The age of Aquarius. I found it fascinating with references to peace, Woodstock, Janis Joplin, very creatively interpreted. Some put their noses in and were gone in minutes....clearly didn't get it!
I found a farmers' market where I made a couple of purchases, then had a coffee and chatted to the stall holders. They told me about the crane that fell in the hurricane, which is next to my hotel. I said they should put up a plaque and add to their historic town walk. They thought that was a very good idea!
It's behind the tree if you enlarge the photo. It is really very twisted, and I gsther has ripped up the foundations of he building. The boardwalk had been repaired but one section was inaccessible and I think that's where the historic houses are. Perhaps I'll see them from the water on my Peggy's Cove Tour.
I continued from the farmers' market along the boardwalk and quay where I saw various plaques about Halifax 's history.
This is a piece of English history I didn't know about. Sounds grim. Why was it done?
Statue celebrating emigration. Of course hsve to remember, Canada is a country built from immigrants, quite a different perception, and many arrived here in Halifax whilst transport was by ship, being the nearest port to Europe.
Statue to the women volunteers in the war.
Statue to Samual Cunard who came from Halifax.
After this I continued to the immigration museum.
Here I spent a couple of hours, a very moving couple of hours reading and hearing stories of immigration from all over the world. Part of the museum was quay 21 where the immigrant ships used to dock. Our guide was a young Nigerian girl who had emigrated to Canada a year ago, who told the story with such passion about what it was like to leave your home, she had a real empathy with the historical stories. There was a film showing people from many nationalities and their stories. Although Canada aspires to be a tolerant and multicultural country, I know it is not without its problems.
Here we were sat in the arrivals hall where immigrants would have been interviewed.
I next went to check my shuttle and decided to change the time. Arriving at the airport 7pm for an 8.20 flight sounded a bit tight to me. So I've brought it forward an hour. And after lunch I went to visit the Nova Scotia art gallery, where I learnt more about Maud Lewis, who's work I had seen with Patrick. Here they had her complete home covered in paintings and preserved. It reminded me of Charleston farmhouse, although her story is much sadder. Deformed by arthritis as a child, she was shunned by peers, she spent her entire life in a small geographical area, marrying a local peddler and living in a house not much more than a shed.
I have to say I am rather taken with her simple paintings. I also explored other works in the gallery.
From here I headed back, popping into the Anglican cathedral the oldest building in Halifax. They were about to have an animal service for St Francis day. I told the experience I had of an animal service when I was a child. I think he was expecting dogs on leads and cats in baskets. He might get a surprise,
On the way home I passed by various other significant buildings. I have been told to visit the library tomorrow. Apparently it is beautiful understand has a good rooftop cafe. Wrap up warm was the advice. Yes I think I've understood that.
The clock tower.
A modern convention building. It was the sailing boat weather vane that interested me. Oh and yesterday, I saw a shop for Maritime Hobbies, very suited to the area.
My second day in Halifax I decided to have breakfast out and found a little cafe a couple if streets away. I told them it had been recommended as the best breakfadt in Halifax, to which he replied, ' We'd better make an extra effort!'. My fruit smoothie, cream cheese bagel and coffee were just right...
And I followed this by a walk round the Victorian public gardens near the hotel. Very traditiinal and of its time, reflecting the very English presence there has been here.
Later on I went to visit the very modern library building that had been recommended. It was s fascinating building, full of activity, with rows of youngsters on computers, discussing their work, older people reading, screens advertising loads of free activities, a very exciting culture. The building was of a most interesting structure with criss crossing staircases and a rooftop cafe.
Unfortunately there was repair work outside so I couldn't get any good pictures. Someone asked I in was off the ship, in said a definite no! But there were two more today. In was told there are several each day in October. Ridiculous, was how it was described. The impact off that many people on a small town.
I exploredva few more local streets, then citadel where j learny more about the historical conflicts and saw the midday cannon being fired.
Interesting the sentry was a woman.
The soldies wear a uniform with a kilt, reference Nova Scotia. Michael Palin did the ' be a soldier'experience. I note thst cost $200;but I don't imagine he paid!
Today I found some of the historic buildings around the waterfront, but all had been redeveloped into boutiques and gift shops. Today was a lovely day to walk slong more off the boardwalk.
However, obviously getting more and more laid back, I hadn't double checked my tickets. And suddenly discovered I was late for my tour to Peggy' s Cove. What a blow! However on enquiring at the tourist office I discovered it was another coach tour whereas I thought it was on a boat. So actually it was a relief. But I did want to go. The tourist office gave me options and I looked on the internet. Finally I took the decision to take a taxi, which made for a lovely trip. My taxi driver was a recent immigrant from Iran, his wife was Canadian. He said he liked English and European culture but found the Americans rude. I could agree with that from some of my travelling experiences.
I had a lovely time exploring Peggy's Cove, passing by other beautiful bays en route. Unfortunately again it was full of tourists in large groups , although it is a working fishing village.
The famous lighthouse.
Appropriate road name! They were cooking lobsters and making lobster rolls.
An idyllic place to stay on the edge of the water, but maybe somewhere quieter....
I returnec for a last wander along the boardwalk and scallops and mash at the Bluenose cafe! Tomorrow's temperatures up to 16° but only 6° in the morning!
I awoke at nearly 1am to hear beating music! A disturbed night ...and today is a long day as travelling this evening. So have had a lay in and off for breakfast. No need to rush as checkout is midday and I just want to go to the maritime museum.
Breakfast was egg and soldiers, and I met with a family of Canadians from Toronto, three generations, grandma, mum and daughter who is at uni in Halifax. They were lovely. Said Halifax is more traditional so little open today.
Whilst we were there streams of people passed wearing pink. There is a fund raising event for cancer. Last night's music was related to a celebration across the city I gathered, hence the people I had seen dressed up. I would have frozen without my big coat and thermals! On my return I took a short cut through the mall, and yes , few shops open, except for Canada's answer to Poundland.
According to the hotel there were two wedding celebrations last night, hence the noise. And there's another as I wait for the bus to the airport. One the the aspects of staying in a bigger hotel thst can be intrusive. But I'm told it's the best hotel in Halifax.
Today I've had a saunter along the boardwalk and been into a couple of shops selling Nova Scotia goods, that I have passed. So a few light things for the suitcase, then a trip to the Maritime museum. Here I learnt more of the naval history and of course there was a section on Cunard and the Titanic. I picked up comments from people. One said, Although it was long ago, it still shocks. Another woman commented on the shocking fact that first class men had a higher chance of survival than third class children. I'm not sure our classridden society has changed so much.
Finally I had a cheese and veg platter, but had to listen to a very vociferous phone call at the table behind.
Well here's to the next trip!
