Mais oui, c'est Quebec

This really is different territory. In Montreal, French was spoken but notices were in both languages, here very little English is spoken and the signage is all French.  My French is gradually returning, but I keep throwing in Spanish by mistake. So today said te con lait, s'il vous plait.  If I was here long enough it would all come back, I am certainly deciphering the notices without too much difficulty.

I arrived yesterday lunchtime, Sunday,  and had a swift taxi  journey to the hotel. I could see immediately that there were some old parts to the city. Today I learnt that the city is 311 years old. I was offered an upgrade to have my room immediately.  I think it was a bit of a con and have already sent a message to Railbookers. Anyway, it's s nice hotel and I have availed myself of the pool and sauna, checked out the hot tub, and the means of getting in and out of the hotel, and had a buffet breakfast. They have interesting wine dispensers, whereby you can get a card loaded and serve yourself wine on each floor! 

Yesterday I checked out the tour information with the concierge, then headed to the cliff, where I walked some way along the cliff top, before descending in the funicular to the port. I noticed a very large cruise ship there, and today there was an ice breaker moored. I was heading for the ferry to cross the river to Levis where I heard the best views of Quebec could be seen. It was a short journey and was free yesterday! There were no signs to anywhere, so I just explored, mounting the very high set of steps to the cliff top, then investigating some of the streets. I had thought I might eat, but there was nowhere to be seen. I saw a few commercial premises, a hospital, houses, then back to the port where there were a couple of cafes, a decorative fountain and a few planted areas.

I got an ice cream and returned on the ferry. I arrived at the funicular and who should I see but Sheila and Jacob from the train journey. What a surprise, for all of us. So we travelled back up together and found somewhere to eat together. They were off to Halifax later that evening.  I returned to the hotel without the aid of the map, having already absorbed the layout of the locality.

This morning after a hotel breakfast and relax I headed to my tour start point. I had double checked arrangements by phone, but am glad I went early. It appeared rather than a single tour, I had been booked on two tours with very little time between them. The girl at the office suggested I pick up a lunch to go, which would have been useful information earlier!  She said the tour only took you to places where you could buy ice cream or chocolate. That turned out not to be true as the first afternoon stop had food available and the ice cream stop had such a queue I forewent that in favour of a walk and taking in the views!  Well travelling equips you to be flexible and go with the flow. You are rarely in control!

So I got on the city tour with a Subway wrap, not my ideal choice and a bottle of water,  as for the first time in my trip, I had left my water bottle at the hotel. This was a useful orientation to the city and has helped me firm up my plans for tomorrow , knowing which bits are best to head for. Quebec means, 'where the river narrows ' and this could be seen when we went out of the city in the afternoon. Like other cities, there are huge quantities of people employed by the government. I saw this with roadworks in Toronto, too. Everything take ages as there is no competition and it's all about employment . We may grumble but I think there are some things we do better.

The city walls

The theatre

Other than a stop at the cliff top we did not get out of the coach, but after a couple of busy days, it wasn't so bad. And the afternoon was  really interesting. We went out of the city to the Montmorency Falls, which are actually higher than Niagara. I went up in the cable car. These were spectacular, and with the autumn colours coming, looked stunning.

We travelled on to the isle of Orleans, a lovely rural community accessed by bridge. This was the ice cream and chocolateir stop. But I saw the queue and walked off to see the pretty houses and views by the river. There was a most ambitious  Halloween display!

 There was a stop to see a local famous copper engraver before going out to the Basilica of St Anne  De Beauprais.  There were many religious buildings around; this had been a religious community. There does seem to be a strong Catholic presence here.

Old properties.

I had thought a swim on my return but had a rest and decided to eat out having not had much all day.  I chose a French restaurant on the hotel's list, just round the corner and treated myself to lobster salad which came with a soup starter and then I chose a maple syrup brule. Very tasty. I may have DIY breakfast today.  There is a little shop downstairs.    So today it's a slow relaxed start and perhaps a swim.

But actually once I put on my extra layer I was loathe to take it off, so the  swim came later. I picked up cheese and yoghurt from the shop so with my Apple and biscuits kept me going til lunch at El Billig, sort of reminded me of home!

I walked through the Plains of Abraham where the famous General Wolfe battle took place, looked at the Joan of Arc garden with some interesting facts. Apparently some people believe all the Marcello towers are joined by tunnels, yes all, despite lack of evidence. And Halloween seems to be integrated with the RC religion here, and all the public gardens are decorated too.

I arrived at the gallery ready for coffee, I got 15% discount through my hotel card, and she gave me another leaflet with 20% of my afternoon museum visit!  I spent a while wandering the various galleries. Some were interesting, and there was more Inuit art which I find very thought provoking. However, I passed on the more classical stuff, and I have to say I get sick and tired of the absolute drivel written by art critics. So an artist threw paint at a canvas, or painted a canvas in one colour, but please don't make a philosophy of it!

And it was here I met the lady from my Mexico tour, actually I spotted her and peered several times unsure about saying anything. But when I collected my coat she was being very terse with the attendant so I knew it was her. So I said, I think I recognise you. So she  gave me a ' what a small world hug' and headed off. I do remember her being rather strange so was glad she moved off really.

When I went out the rain was pounding down and it was cold. I kept thinking, a few degrees less and this will be snow! I was glad of my extra layer, and my lightweight trousers that dry quickly.   I walked along the two streets I had seen yesterday, thinking, a lunch stop would be good, to dry off and pass some time.  El Bilig hit the spot with a very nice Crepe Lucrese  and Breton cake with ice cream. The waiter/owner was lovely with a sense of humour. When the cat ran in with some customers he ran all round the bar looking for it, then popped it in the door next door, I presume his accommodation. The whole restaurant was laughing with him.

An old established grocery store.

It was still raining when I left and I had 30 mins walk to the next museum, the Museum of Civilisation. I got very wet this time but left my coat in the cloakroom and dried off nicely for a couple of hours. The lady at the coat desk ssud she liked my cat rucksack and gave me a cheery ' amusez vous'! This was an excellent museum. I focussed on two areas.  The history of Quebec and a First Nations exhibition, of the history of the arrival of French explorers and the impact on their way of life, and the deep hurt still felt by them.  In some cases their communities have reknitted but others are spread and scattered and have lost the identity of their original communities. Through art and environmental issues they are reenergising their histories. I find it fascinating but also deeply troubling to ponder on this history of what white westerners have done in yet another continent.  Why did we think we knew best? I took a photo and the attendant said it wasn't allowed out of respect. I offered to delete it but he said no, keep it. I  would only share it out of respect for them anyway.

I left when closing time was announced, to find pouring rain. So I planned my quickest route home looking out for a tea and cake stop. This time I managed te avec lait. A swim, sauna a freshen up and I was ready for a relax in the bar. I had a very nice Quebec wine, but have missed a call from Patrick which I couldn't answer as the bar is too noisy. I did the same to him the other day, so no problema.. .Tomorrow I pack up to go but have the whole day here.

Another wet day but had discovered that it is possible to visit the parliament building so headed for there straight away. It was a long process through security, and nothing was said about the pen knife in my rucksack. I did a self guided tour as the times of the guided tours didn't suit, but with the information and interactive screens it was great. I also asked one of the security people about some things. I'm not sure I completely get the system. It's a parliamentary democracy like ours but they have regional and provincial governments too. So I was visiting the Quebec government, not the Canadian government which would be in Ottawa. Each area seems to have s legislature too. 
 The building was most interesting. The upper part is classic whilst the underground areas are modern. I went for a coffee, and watched the film, and saw someone surrounded by cameras but not a clue what was going on!

 There was an amazing library with old documents on display.  In the interactive displays it was possible to watch current proceedings.   Today turned out yo be a book themed day as I also visited the Morrin centre, housed in an old jail. This was a centre of English literature and language and had a large library, plus artefacts.  Again a tour off the jails was available but later in the day. I enjoyed the ambience, read about the history and sat in the dry for a while.  Just over the road was the Maison de literature, a very modern building offering a library, exhibitions and reading room. Lots of people were enjoying the space to read magazines, a good idea on such a day.  I thought i should visit the Basilica but it had little to offer that I hadn't seen before.

I found somewhere for lunch, that turned out to be more expensive than it appeared but had a great prawn risotto with very large and juicy prawns! When I came outside rain had stopped do I had a last walk around the Place Royal and the Quartier Petit Champlain, but it really is very touristy with people posing for photos everywhere.  I do wish tourists knew how to behave properly!  My hates are, people stopping suddenly with no thought someone might be behind them, tour groups completely blocking the path and walking along in a group assuming everyone else will get out of the way! 

So far of the cities, Ottawa is my favourite, Montreal is rather like London and I suppose Quebec is similar to Stratford on Avon, lots of history and rather busy.   I'm imagining Halifax will be a bit quieter. So now I'm awaiting another train experience, which I think will be different to the last.