Volcanoes, earthquakes and alpacas! The final days.

I suppose I might as well finish my holiday with the same sense of adventure.  When I first arrived here in Antigua I thought perhaps I would have preferred to linger at Lake Atitlan, but it has proved an interesting stay.

Antigua is a most beautiful colonial city with an interesting history which is now a World Heritage Site.  It has been hit by earthquakes in the past and as a result the current city is constructed with low buildings. There are ruins of previous incarnations of the city which Katia described to me. The city was laid out on a grid using lines. People have a limited range of colours they are able to paint their houses so there is not the interesting clash that exists in Granada, for example. We visited parts of the old churches and convents which again had evidence of Mayan symbol fused with the symbols brought by the Spanish. From the hill of the cross we had stunning views of the city and volcanoes.

We spent 4-5 hours walking the city and taking in the ambience before we said a sad farewell, but hopefully we can keep in touch. 

I have had such lovely experiences with people. Each time I go to eat or have coffee,  I am asked what is my name and where I come from, then the waiter or owner shake me by the hand, tell me their name and ask me how I like Guatamala. In the hotels too, they set out to call you by your name and take a personal approach.  Although I know I still make lots of mistakes, they say I speak good Spanish, and one of Katia's friends we met said ' Are you sure you are not a Guatamalteca?!'

I met a lovely Canadian mother and daughter here at the hotel and shared a bottle of wine with them, that Katia had given me, whilst sitting in the roof garden. Andrea had been to Antigua before to work in an animal shelter and gave me a list of restaurants and places to visit, together with her email address before she left. This is where I am now with views of the volcano, and that brings me to another story.

This morning (Wednesday), I was up at 4.30 for a birdwatching tour, which was most interesting. We went out of the city to a coffee finca, Finca Filadelfia. Here I met my guide Tony. We transferred into a very large jeep truck to go up the mountain. It was really funny as he put his box in the back then said 'could you just hold this between your legs?' !!!!!!! And handed me a large coffee flask. Well on the way up the mountain it leaked, so I ended up with wet trousers in a very embarrassing place. I looked as if I had wet myself. He thought it was very funny! We got out to look at some birds and met an armed guard. I thought about explaining, then thought I would never see him again so who cares?

Actually the armed guard came with us; apparently people enter the estate (which was enormous) and remove the motors from the irrigation system and also take bromeliads from the trees which is illegal. When I saw the poor and very young people picking coffee, I could see why this might occur.

Well back to the volcano; there were a number of large booms and each time Volcano Fuego errupted large clouds of ash. By the end of our tour there was a large cloud over it. Then my guide asked if I had felt the earthquake last night. I had apparently slept through it, having gone to bed early in preparation for my early start! They say there are tremors every day here but I haven't noticed any.

Whilst walking up the mountain a flock of sheep came up led by an alpaca. My guide said to stand still as alpacas can be a bit frisky. I did as I was told but it had its beady eye on me and headed straight for me and started to push me, at which point I thought I was going to disappear over the side into the bush. So I thought, time to move.  I escaped as the guide and guard batted at the alpaca. Later my guide mentioned that it knows all the regulars but makes a beeline for strangers! The trip was successful however, as there were stunning views, we saw 30 different birds and lots of lovely flowers too.

This afternoon I went to the textile museum for a safer activity. On the way I stopped at a coffee shop where I saw them roasting the beans, what a wonderful aroma!

I then spent an interesting couple of hours having a guided tour of the textile museum, learning about the textiles of all the areas and the different ways they are constructed. The colours are really stunning; I was quite taken with the table sets but the serviettes are little bigger than glass mats. The conventions are quite different and it has been on rare occasions have I had a napkin that will cover my lap; they are more for wiping fingers I think.

Funny how things change and help the inevitable process. Tonight I went for a meal and chose somewhere that looked reasonable. I went upstairs as directed only to wait a while with no reaction! The group who followed were shown to a table and the waiters walked past me. So rather than create an international conflict I walked out. After a lovely supper elsewhere I thought a hot chocolate might go down well- it is cooler here in the evenings. So I asked for one ( pronounced choco-latte). Yes, I got a latte; they were obviously expecting me to ask in English! Perhaps it is time to come home and slip into the old life like a comfortable pair of slippers. Actually that is something I am looking forward to is wearing my slippers, sitting in a comfortable armchair and a proper cup of tea! 

Life's little (and big) surprises.

I left Tikal for a lovely 24 hours in Flores. Flores is a little island joined by a bridge and set in a lake. It was convenient as only 10 minutes from the airport. So there I spent the latter part of Christmas Day and had lunch with a view!

Exploration of the island only took 15 minutes so that gave me time for a swim in the pool and relaxation. Strange to see Christmas decorations in the sunshine!

Everyone was out picnicking and swimming in the lake. There were stalls selling delicious looking food and this all carried on into the evening when I strolled along the promenade and had a drink on the hotel balcony.

On Boxing Day I had my first surprise, after a big hug and farewell from Nixon, my driver.  There had been practically no security coming up. But this time they went into it in a big way. My suitcase and rucksack were checked inside on arrival, then I ended up going through security twice as things I had packed in my hand luggage for an easy arrival were rejected so I had to go back to the check in desk and get them put in a bag. Then I had to do the full thing again, shoes off, belt off and all my bags through. Then they still found my body spray, my last vestige of something smelly to smarten me up and took that away!

At the other end I was met by Katia, who hugged me like a long lost friend and she has been with me every day since, so now we are good friends. On our way to Lake Atitlan we stopped at another Mayan site, Iximache, which was so interesting. But even more so as it was a special day for the Mayan people who were there celebrating. I asked if the clothing was for the celebrations, but no, in this part of Guatamala they wear these costumes all the time. Katia asked some of the people about their celebrations and they began talking to us, then they asked to share a photo.

Next we got talking to another family who invited us to get involved in their preparations for their offering for The New Year. Katia said this was a real privilege as outsiders are not usually invited .

I helped with preparing flowers and the 'abuella' the grandfather who makes the decisions explained the meaning of the elements; all were associated with peace, good harvests, health and family. They then lit the offering and as it burned said their prayers to the four points of the compass and the sun, interestingly, simultaneously using the Roman Catholic signs. This is another example of how long held traditions have not been overtaken but have merged with the religions they have been obliged to take on during their history. This was one of the most moving experiences I can remember.

Arrival at Lake Atitlan was a great surprise too as the hotel was set on the lakeside in botanical gardens with views of a ring of volcanoes; it was much fresher here and the mornings chilly, but days beautiful.

Katia and I had three very bumpy rides across the lake! We visited San Juan where we went to a textile cooperative and the ladies showed us how they spin, dye and weave the cotton. I found this so interesting and made a few purchases, although I couldn't master the spinning!

And they dressed me in local costume. I am not sure this would look good in Billingshurst High Street.

We went on to other towns around the lake all named after saints, San Pedro, Santiago etc and saw some interesting sights. This is another place where washing is done traditionally in the lakes like in Ometepe. The public wash houses that have been built remain empty, probably because they were built for rather than with the local people.

In the evening Katia and I went into Panajachel in a tuctuc, to have hot chocolate and cake. We have shared so much information about our countries and our families, travel does have many repercussions- sharing languages, cultures, beliefs and seeing the many similarities, yet distinct differences there are. In this part of Guatamala there are high levels of poverty and few have televisions, as electricity is relatively recent. Homes are very small and although school is provided many don't go through lack of money to get there and buy suitable clothes, plus they work with their families to earn money.

Now for my really big surprise!

Yesterday I set off with Katia for a hike in the National park and to see the canopy. I took little notice of the discussions at the entrance and we started at the mariposarium to see the butterflies. Then we were told it was time and I thought, for what?

The look on my face shows that realisation had dawned! This looked serious.

Now I am on my way up crossing hanging bridges but with a bit of extra weight!

And here I have just landed from my first zip lining experience! I can't work out how to insert the video. But if that wasn't enough , I actually had to do 8 in total zipping over the tree tops. It was a case of hold on, then let go and go for it! At least I had the prospect of dying whilst doing something interesting, but have lived to tell the tale!

The most difficult bit, though, was at the end when we had to go across a bridge like a widely spaced step ladder, which I did master, but the one like a series of swings we had to move from one to the other I had to give up on as I could feel my back twisting. I wasn't going to let my determination get me into trouble!

A Happy Christmas from Tikal Jungle Lodge, Northern Guatemala

I thought it was time to send Christmas greetings, particularly as phone calls have proved a little difficult. This is partially attributable to wifi in only a couple of spots and also the fact that electricity is not on all the time, plus I have been out or travelling during the critical period. I have borrowed a rechargeable torch as mine gives a rather pathetic spot of light and yesterday evening I began showering by torchlight. We were told the power goes off 10-6 overnight but that is not quite accurate. It actually seems to go off at 9pm but also for periods in between meals during the day, which is of little consequence as I'm often not here. And I'm always fast asleep by 9pm!

My cabin is very pleasant and set in the jungle and yesterday evening there was a monkey in the palm tree throwing things at my roof.

When I got in yesterday I found the clothes rail in my wardrobe had somehow emptied all my clothes into the bottom, yet the rail was still in place, despite the fact the hangers were attached by rings. I wondered about the monkey or the earth tremors that had apparently occurred ( they are a daily feature but I haven't noticed them) or the fact that the Mayan people still make sacrifices with Shamans- had something weird occurred?

I arrived here after a long day on Wednesday when I was met after my flight from Managua at Guatamala City (business class again). Winston clearly set out to show me everything in Guatamala city during the course of the day. However he was thwarted by some unforeseen closures of certain museums. Nevertheless we managed to visit the Archeological museum which gave a good background to the Mayan culture, and the Rozas Botran Foundation, a modern art gallery, which had an exhibition of modern Central American art and a section about Carlos Merida who had introduced cubism to Guatamala after meeting Picasso in Paris. Despite the textile museum being closed I did manage to see some textiles. But in all Guatamala city didn't strike me as a city of note.

These museums would have been sufficient, but I was whisked off to see various other buildings and in the middle of this I was taken to a restaurant where they alternated between Peruvian pipe music and marimba music, all at full volume. Given that the restaurant was packed and conversation lively ,the noise level was significant! I was introduced to a national meal Kak-Ik which consisted of soup with turkey in it, accompanied by rice and tomillas, maize patties. Another nation that seems to have a hearty appetite.

Next I was taken to a scale model of the country created by a man called Frances Vela which was interesting, but in the meantime I had been told that my forthcoming flight was the one for which I needed to reduce my luggage. My itinerary wasn't quite accurate, so I had visions of arriving here with the one change of clothing I had in my rucksack! Or alternatively repacking at the airport.

 I needn't have panicked, as when we eventually arrived my suitcase was accepted without question. But I think my guide and driver miscalculated the traffic, which apparently was particularly high leading up to Christmas. I think they were having a difference of opinion, as we sped through various interesting back streets of Guatamala city, taking short cuts that weren't, arriving at the airport with little time to spare. I breathed a sigh of relief and had a few minutes peace before boarding.  When I looked out of the window I wondered which craft I would be boarding?

Well it was a 50 minute flight in the small plane ( about 20 passengers), which even had Christmas decorations inside! After this I was collected by Nixon who took me to the Jungle Lodge, which is inside the Tikal National Park. So every time I enter they try to charge me an entry fee so I have to explain that it is included in my stay.

Now....... Why did the tarantula cross the road? ......... Well to get to the other side and turn round and go back again of course.  This is what we watched from the bus on the way in the dark ! My driver said he had twice seen a jaguar but one of my guides said there were in fact, five wild cats that could be seen here if you were really lucky.

Yesterday and today I have been visiting the Mayan sites which are fascinating. Yesterday Manuel took me to Yaxha and Topoxta, less visited sites where we saw buildings still buried and those that had been excavated. The history is fascinating. Manuel looked as if he was about 80 but seemed to have plenty of energy. I was exhausted after about 5 hours of walking and climbing monuments in the heat and humidity and each time I thought I might decide not to climb, he said something to the effect that this was a view not to be missed. Our first site involved a lovely boat trip to a tranquil island.

This last one I climbed to the top which was a bit like mountaineering and even worse coming down.  This morning my legs were so stiff that I tried going up steps using my left foot, my right buttock feeling like something had kicked me. Still as the waiter at breakfast said, it's good for me and I will be fit when I go home. Very positive people again!

Today I was met by Carlos and we walked into the site beside the hotel which was the centre of the Mayan culture ,Tikal. More fascinating information about a culture that began 900 years BC. Carlos promised not to make me climb so many steps and was very good at stopping for a rest periodically. He did invite me to go round the back of the temple to see the pythons- now that's a new line in chat up! However they couldn't be seen at that point although I did see the photos from another couple whom I had seen at the hotel. I was not sorry to have missed them and certainly had no plans to climb more stairs to see them.

I was standing very close to the edge of a steep pyramid which might explain the slightly tense expression! No health and safety here and I had read that many tourists have been killed falling from the ruins.

Within the complex there are three types of buildings, astronomical, sacrificial and residential. The Mayans used to build over each layer every 20 years so the structures have layer upon layer of buildings, some of which have been excavated. Some they cannot excavate as, if they remove the trees, where the roots have penetrated, the buildings will just collapse. What is most amazing is that they have been discovered at all.

So my Christmas Eve is a relaxing time by the pool and tomorrow morning is free too. I then transfer back to Flores for the night for an early flight on Boxing Day to Lake Atitlan via Guatamala City. Nothing here seems to close at all. Tonight is a special meal for Buena Noche.

Happy Christmas and a Peaceful New Year to everyone!

Leaving Nicaragua

A few more views of Ometepe on my last walk. I  had two extra hours when my ferry didn't run, but unfortunately not in the best location but I did catch a picture from the ferry of the women washing and the cattle in the lake.

Sun going down over the lake.

No health and safety here! Coconuts being cut over my head!

Evening traffic.....

Lakeside activities.

I arrived back on the mainland and was met by Renee my guide from Granada. It was a long day, stopping at  Massaya market and volcano.  I only managed to eat at the market as service was soooooo slow. I think I arrived just after a coach party. My attempt to have a little snack of fish soup failed as what arrived resembled a very large boullibaise in a dish the size of a mixing bowl, with tortillas,salad and a plate of rice, all a bit overwhelming.  There was enough fish for several days meals. All meals are accompanied or preceded by a tea plate of salad, always exactly the same, and whatever accompaniments you choose, all seem to arrive! But the food is plentiful and tasty.

Our stop at the volcano was more interesting ( artesan markets can be a bit samey, so I wasn't too worried not to have had much time there). And I can't buy anything til my 'light ' flight is over!

Here I was given a set of evacuation instructions and guidance on how to conduct myself.  We drove to the crater, where we could smell the sulphur and peer into the bubbling magma, quite an experience. And then when we looked outwards, could see two further edges of old craters. So we were standing at the edge of a new crater within two old craters. It was like a very large witch's cauldron!

We arrived in Leon late afternoon and went straight out to explore.  It was very hot and I couldn't see how I was going to cool my room, but found later that the ac and fan did cool it significantly later. There were lots of Christmas activities with stalls and tableaux so I haven't quite avoided all of that.  Also the Gigantes that they have in Spain were in evidenceand here they were trying to beat the Guiness book of records with the tallest one ever.

Tableaux at the hotel, one of its better features!

The hotel reception here was a bit 'frio' and poor in many ways, although there were nice open landings which I did sit on to sew on Sunday afternoon as it was cool there. There was no safe, no fridge to keep water cool, no hairdryer, rather dangerous looking shower with electrical wires going into it but It barely heated the waterand breakfast was pretty sad too!  I did manage to circumvent the system one morning by ordering my juice, then asking for hot water for my tea bag ( it was juice or coffee), but the local juice bar more than made up for it. But it was really really hot in Leon and being a city quite intense heat.

On Saturday I had a city walk with a lovely young man who gave me a big hug when he left me. We visited the market and tried some sweets. There were all sorts of products, some food looked more appetising than others. It was the large slabs of meat and dubious looking fish, I had to hold my breath and walk past quickly! This lady in the photo has lots of pottery products including money boxes. They were all very friendly, I think because my guide chatted with them and was also talking to me in Spanish.

We also visited sites of the revolution and I was given a complete run down of the country's history and a lot of background about the revolution, General Somoza and the Sandinistas, in which Leon was at the forefront. It's amazing how real these things become that have been vague bits of knowledge, when you visit a country and hear it from the people. There are a number of Revolution murals and memorials around the city and the Myths and Legend museum we went to which had been a jail, had a lot of rather graphic illustrations of torture on the walls.

The cathedral, of which I had stunning views from my window, is the largest in Central America. We climbed to the top for views of the volcanos and also so as see the structure and the place where unmarried mothers used to have to go to worship separately! I got a rather interesting picture of a little boy peering in, in the evening when there was a wedding underway too!

My guide left me in the Ortiz Gurdian gallery, which was housed in a beautiful old colonial building across two blocks. It had a stunning collection of 20th century art including Warhol, Jasper John's and Diego Rivera and many Central American artists that were new to me. By this time I was exhaunted and my head full to bursting with new information.

After a quiet cool afternoon at the hotel I went in search of a restaurant for which I had been given a drink voucher. I seemed to be going further and further from the centre, into little streets like a rabbit warren! Then a lady called out to me with the name of the restaurants and said its round the corner! It turned out to be a little gem, so I had a lovely vegetarian meal and my free lemonade, and I mean real lemonade, really tart and refreshing! On the way back I saw glimpses of everyday life. There were people sat in the road on plastic chairs round a doorway, watching some kind of concert ! They appeared to be having a great time. Then outside one of the churches a man was letting off one rocket after another! The whole city was a complete buzz of activity.  This morning a I had a look round some more of the markets before travelling back to Managua.

I am now trying to use all the mod cons of this rather nice hotel before I leave at 6 am, as I will be in a forest lodge tomorrow which doesn't have 24 hr electricity!