Merida

Just one full day in Merida, and the previous evening I had missed the orientation walk but actually didn't miss anything.
We set off for a drive of around an hour to visit the Celestun Bird Sanctuary and biosphere reserve. It was a beautiful day with clear sky.

We got on a little panga which took us along the river where we saw flamingos, hundreds of flamingos  that were quite active as it is the mating season. When standing they were pink, the young ones paler and their wings contrasted beautifully when they flew.  Quite a sight.

We went into the mangroves where we saw an alligator, then we stopped at an Ojo de Agua where we saw many fish, and some people about to swim. Perhaps they hadn't seen the alligator!

The whole trip seemed to be over rather quickly, then we returned to Merida. I thought we were bring dropped at the museum, but everyone seemed to have changed their minds, so we returned to the hotel, where I waited for Julie to collect laundry before we set off to explore. We got side tracked  by a couple of shops but the embroidered dresses didn't fit so I passed on that one. Then we visited the book shop but couldn't find anything our guide had recommended.  But Julie got  chatting to a chap, who took us upstairs into a textiles shop that was like Aladin's cave.

 (The dress shops have beautiful clothing embroidered for women and very attractive shirts for men, which are used all the time with some for special occasions.)
Here we negotiated shopping and did some bargaining and Julie came out with a Panama hat and a man's shirt but not the bedspread. I just helped with the Spanish. Then we found the post office, an interesting little  building with a pair of scales and not much else.
From here we walked to the San Louis area where we found a Mediterranean restaurant where I had salmon and Julie had a salad. Am not sure we sorted  the bill and tip out properly but I did explain it to him.

After this we went to the anthropological museum which had an exhibition on about Mexican history and another about embroidery. It was such a big  building, I think we were expecting more.

We headed back towards the hotel, passing through various squares and stopping for a drink.

On our return, I had a swim and later went in search of some wine. But once again, there was  no white wine by the glass, only red,  so I sat in the atrium area and sorted out my online accounts.  Tomorrow we leave at 7.30am  for Playa Del Carmen, our last Mexican stop.

Travelling to Palenque

The first news this morning was that Mario, our driver, was having to join another tour, so we now have Jorge. We left the cool temperatures and rain of San Cristobel for a long drive to Palenque. It really was cooler high up in the mountain  and didnt feel like Mexico temperatures! Plus the hotel was chilly but it had the best hot shower so far!  We had only driven down the mountain when the mist cleared. We had an interesting journey although I slept part of the way. We travelled into some much greener countryside, over the dam on the Grejalva river and past small settlements. We spent some time on windy mountain roads and some on motorways. There were several loo stops and a lunch stop and when we got out each time in the clear blue sky it was hot! I was highly embarrassed when one of my colleagues gave only 5 pesos for a tip as it's only about 2p. There has been a bit of mumbling and grumbling about tips, am not sure where these people have been with travelling but our guide has explained everything to us.

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On arrival there was an offer of a walk but we were told there was not much to see, so I opted for a swim and sit by the pool. Likewise for dinner, I preferred a light snack and some peace and quiet. Being organised wears a bit thin  sometimes and I don't need looking after.  A bit of quiet painting made a nice change.

Later I sat by the poolside and ordered a Margarita, and then asked if I could have the fried banana with ice cream instead of cream and cheese. Oh no, he said, you can have ice cream or fried banana.  The ice cream comes in a different dish. I suggested the ice cream could be put on the plate but this level of flexibility was certainly not available, so now he has gone away to give me more time to make up my mind. I don'  think I need more time to think, it'I him who needs that. I fear I may have missed my opportunity for anything! Well stranger things have happened. I must have got the apprentice last time. I got fed up with waiting, so went to the till and she sent a more mature waiter and he complied with my wishes straight away!


We checked out of our very nice hotel. It was a pity it was a one night stay, as it was rather nice with its pool, the little patios by the rooms, and the level of comfort. I was a little troubled to find my alarm clock ,was  half an hour slow so have changed the battery, but perhaps I knocked it when  changing the alarm. Breakfast was cooked to order, good but tricky as we didn’t have much time. Today we visited the Mayan site at Palenque. Whilst pretty  spectacular, I still think Tikal in Guatemala is better. Perhaps it is because that was the first Mayan site  I had seen.

Our guide was very knowledgeable but kept sitting us down in the shade to tell us the history and show us pictures and I just wanted to explore. Apparently some of the site has only recently been explored, for example the sarcophagus of the red queen, named after the cinnabar  with which they impregnated the burial robes, a substance that also destroyed the DNA. We had seen the robes in the archaeological  museum.

The site of Pakal  had been explored  in 1952 but the site itself discovered in 1773, completely immersed in the jungle. Now there are conflicts between the authorities preserving the jungle and those preserving the archaeology.
We saw various buildings, the House of Kings, the House of inscriptions, the House off the Skull

The site of Pakal  had been explored  in 1952 but the site itself discovered in 1773, completely immersed in the jungle. Now there are conflicts between the authorities preserving the jungle and those preserving the archaeology.

We saw various buildings, the House of Kings, the House of inscriptions, the House off the Skull. There were some stucco murals portraying the source of life Maize and others showing the ceremonies for drawing blood which was used for worship.

 There were some stucco murals portraying the source of life Maize and others showing the ceremonies for drawing blood which was used for worship. Unlike the Aztecs and other groups, they did not have human sacrifice.
This was a very advanced society, with aqueducts, toilets, baths and the buildings were built with  mathematical precision and orientation to the sun, moon and stars. They lived between 300BC and 600AD and would have left the site for some environmental reason, such as flood or drought. So why do we insist on living in flood areas..,.have we gone backwards.  It always amazes me how we have lost so much knowledge from past civilisation. This was one if the biggest societies that has existed and there descendants still hold to some if their traditions.

Unlike the Aztecs and other groups, they did not have human sacrifice.
This was a very advanced society, with aqueducts, toilets, baths and the buildings were built with  mathematical precision and orientation to the sun, moon and stars. They lived between 300BC and 600AD and would have left the site for some environmental reason, such as flood or drought. So why do we insist on living in flood areas..,.have we gone backwards.  It always amazes me how we have lost so much knowledge from past civilisation. This was one of the biggest societies that has existed and there descendants still hold to some if their traditions.


Our second stop was at La Higuera restaurant. I know what Higuera is because of the maracas and plant pot I bought last year in Nicaragua. It is a tree with fruit with a hard skin used to make into  various containers. The main menu was different cuts if steak, huge pieces.  It looked very good but I don’t feel like something so bug whilst travelling so opted for the chicken breast and salad and even then only managed half.
We are now settled down to a 6 hour drive so don’t expect to arrive until about 8-8.30.

Well we made it before 7pm, but I opted again to miss the group walk and laundry stop.

Moving on to San Cristobel

We left Oaxaca at 6am on Friday to Fly to Tuxtla via Mexico City, then drive to San Cristobel.  Both were relatively short flights and we had breakfast in Mexico City airport. Our American friend is a bit tetchy as well as being loud!
We arrived at our destination where the temperature was very hot and went on to the Sumidera Gorge where we lunched on the riverside and then went on a boat ride. There was an option to do it just for our group which the majority opted for but that made it more expensive of course.

The gorge is similar depth to the Grand Canyon and quite narrow in parts with interesting rock formations, quite stunning.
We also saw wildlife,  crocodiles, herons, vultures, and pelicans.

There was also a shrine to the Virgin of Guadeloupe, the dark skinned virgin, very common and special here.

And an interesting effect from the waterfall in the rainy season!

We arrived in San Cristobel at about 5pm, the temperature is cooler as it is in the mountains.  Later we went on an orientation walk. There is a lively town centre and lots of textile places and restaurants too. Apparently there is strong hippy presence and there was a big influx of foreigners 1994 when there was a war between the local Zapotec community  and the government.  

I set out unsuccessfully to change my remaining dollars then had a problem with Santander ATM where it decided not to give me any money, saying there was a problem reading my card. So I was successful at another bank but need to watch my statement.  I might go in this afternoon to check. One of the other group members had a similar problem with the same bank in Mexico City. 

We found a lovely little restaurant with patio heaters for a pizza and drink except they had no white wine despite an extensive wine list. Someone else went to a restaurant that had no cheese! Whilst we were there the musician struck up which created a great atmosphere but we couldn't hear each other speak. We enjoyed the ambience for a while.

Later I made a phone call to Nicaragua in reception as the internet wouldn't function in my room, and observed our American friend having a temper tantrum when they asked her for 50 pesos to bortow a heater, all of about £3! And she's the one who goes for expensive meals. We awoke to a bright morning. Being the first of the group to go to breakfast I had to work the system, do you have a voucher, no, puzzled faces, walked down to reception, yes it's ok, so now I could go to the table. I choose a nice quiet table by the window, but no, as I am with the group I have to sit on the group table!

This morning we set off to Zinacantan, a Mayan village in the mountains. It was market day and everyone was out buying food, cooking utensils, cloth, clothes and most were wearing their traditional costumes. It was so beautiful. 

Their clothes were beautiful and hand embroidered, even the smallest children were wearing the shawls and men had costume too.  There were  vegetables artistically arranged making the whole thing a wonderful experience.

My attention was drawn to a woman drawing embroidery designs on fabric for blouses, so I purchased one for 80 pesos. If I finish embroidering it, it will take some time,  but I could applique it too. It was around £3.

 There were boxes and boxes of coloured wool and threads, what a time I could have here.

We were then invited to visit a family who had a craft shop. They had a shrine set up in the house as the man was a village elder.

We had visited the church where we heard about their system of self government, which I had previously learnt about in Guatemala. We saw the family preparing food, a woman weaving with a back look and saw the many things they had for sale too.

They dressed some of the group for a wedding.

Our next visit was to San Juan Chamula. Here the elders wore furry waistcoats and skirts but there was no bright coloured costumes. The same systems of government is in place and the the president and local government leaders have to come and participate in their ceremonies. These are highly active political areas where the indigenous people fight for their rights and traditions.

The highlight here was the visit to the St John the Baptist church which is a Roman Catholic church now a Mayan temple. There were no pews, it was full of candles, there were hanging banners and the floor was strewn with pine needles. The groups were praying in front of the candles, making various offerings and there were shamans performing ceremonies too. Some involved chickens. It was extremely moving and just reinforces again for me that all religious worship a higher force, have some simlar elements and choose different manners to do it. Obviously  no photography was allowed here.

I purchased an avocado and orange for tea from the market and then we had a coffee stop. Julie and I managed to get separated from the group, but knew where the bus pick up was so all ended well!

We were taken to the town centre and market where we saw the Santa Domingo church. Julie and I wandered around the market 

and made a few purchases then had lunch in a pretty little courtyard restaurant where a guitarist entertained us.

We then returned to one of the pedestrian streets where we explored the handicraft shops, with many temptations, later we found an organic cafe for cake and hot chocolate and lingered in hope that the rain would stop. It didn't, so we walked to the Virgin of Guadeloupe church under the eves, avoiding the drips.

The  church had a service and was all neon lights and colourful icons, and it looked like a wedding was going to happen soon . We returned to the hotel and in the evening had hoped to go to the bar. But they didn't serve glasses of wine, only  bottles.

When we headed further afield we were so amazed to find streets of restaurants packed full, it coud have been Saturday night in Horsham. But we found a space for a simple snack, but no white wine again!