We arrived at our destination where the temperature was very hot and went on to the Sumidera Gorge where we lunched on the riverside and then went on a boat ride. There was an option to do it just for our group which the majority opted for but that made it more expensive of course.
The gorge is similar depth to the Grand Canyon and quite narrow in parts with interesting rock formations, quite stunning.
We also saw wildlife, crocodiles, herons, vultures, and pelicans.
There was also a shrine to the Virgin of Guadeloupe, the dark skinned virgin, very common and special here.
And an interesting effect from the waterfall in the rainy season!
We arrived in San Cristobel at about 5pm, the temperature is cooler as it is in the mountains. Later we went on an orientation walk. There is a lively town centre and lots of textile places and restaurants too. Apparently there is strong hippy presence and there was a big influx of foreigners 1994 when there was a war between the local Zapotec community and the government.
I set out unsuccessfully to change my remaining dollars then had a problem with Santander ATM where it decided not to give me any money, saying there was a problem reading my card. So I was successful at another bank but need to watch my statement. I might go in this afternoon to check. One of the other group members had a similar problem with the same bank in Mexico City.
We found a lovely little restaurant with patio heaters for a pizza and drink except they had no white wine despite an extensive wine list. Someone else went to a restaurant that had no cheese! Whilst we were there the musician struck up which created a great atmosphere but we couldn't hear each other speak. We enjoyed the ambience for a while.
Later I made a phone call to Nicaragua in reception as the internet wouldn't function in my room, and observed our American friend having a temper tantrum when they asked her for 50 pesos to bortow a heater, all of about £3! And she's the one who goes for expensive meals. We awoke to a bright morning. Being the first of the group to go to breakfast I had to work the system, do you have a voucher, no, puzzled faces, walked down to reception, yes it's ok, so now I could go to the table. I choose a nice quiet table by the window, but no, as I am with the group I have to sit on the group table!
This morning we set off to Zinacantan, a Mayan village in the mountains. It was market day and everyone was out buying food, cooking utensils, cloth, clothes and most were wearing their traditional costumes. It was so beautiful.
Their clothes were beautiful and hand embroidered, even the smallest children were wearing the shawls and men had costume too. There were vegetables artistically arranged making the whole thing a wonderful experience.
My attention was drawn to a woman drawing embroidery designs on fabric for blouses, so I purchased one for 80 pesos. If I finish embroidering it, it will take some time, but I could applique it too. It was around £3.
There were boxes and boxes of coloured wool and threads, what a time I could have here.
We were then invited to visit a family who had a craft shop. They had a shrine set up in the house as the man was a village elder.
We had visited the church where we heard about their system of self government, which I had previously learnt about in Guatemala. We saw the family preparing food, a woman weaving with a back look and saw the many things they had for sale too.
They dressed some of the group for a wedding.
Our next visit was to San Juan Chamula. Here the elders wore furry waistcoats and skirts but there was no bright coloured costumes. The same systems of government is in place and the the president and local government leaders have to come and participate in their ceremonies. These are highly active political areas where the indigenous people fight for their rights and traditions.
The highlight here was the visit to the St John the Baptist church which is a Roman Catholic church now a Mayan temple. There were no pews, it was full of candles, there were hanging banners and the floor was strewn with pine needles. The groups were praying in front of the candles, making various offerings and there were shamans performing ceremonies too. Some involved chickens. It was extremely moving and just reinforces again for me that all religious worship a higher force, have some simlar elements and choose different manners to do it. Obviously no photography was allowed here.
I purchased an avocado and orange for tea from the market and then we had a coffee stop. Julie and I managed to get separated from the group, but knew where the bus pick up was so all ended well!
We were taken to the town centre and market where we saw the Santa Domingo church. Julie and I wandered around the market
and made a few purchases then had lunch in a pretty little courtyard restaurant where a guitarist entertained us.
We then returned to one of the pedestrian streets where we explored the handicraft shops, with many temptations, later we found an organic cafe for cake and hot chocolate and lingered in hope that the rain would stop. It didn't, so we walked to the Virgin of Guadeloupe church under the eves, avoiding the drips.
The church had a service and was all neon lights and colourful icons, and it looked like a wedding was going to happen soon . We returned to the hotel and in the evening had hoped to go to the bar. But they didn't serve glasses of wine, only bottles.
When we headed further afield we were so amazed to find streets of restaurants packed full, it coud have been Saturday night in Horsham. But we found a space for a simple snack, but no white wine again!
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