We headed through arrid countryside on a good motorway, then i notuced Gabriel pulling off the toad to restart the car. This got worse, the transmission making a weird noise and the engine cutting out when the car slowed. We pulled into a little town called San Sebastian de Berlan which Gabriel explained was known as one of the Magic Villages. It was very pretty. So Gabriel phoned for help and we were advised we would have an hour or so, so opted for some sightseeing while we waited.
Whilst more enquiries were made I went for lunch at what appeared to be a trendy restaurant where my carrot juice was served in a jar. My spinach crepes with goats cheese was super but I didn't realise at this time how long they would have to last! I was impressed to see the fresh spinach taken from the rack and the new bag of carrots the waiter went to buy!
I found Gabriel, who advised me it would be a further hour and a half, so I worked my way round the tourist shops. Many were selling things made of cotton, the local product, but others had christening gowns, bags, floral blouses and....toilet seat covers.
I succumbed to a cotton sleeveless top in turquoise which I thought could go over s polo neck. It cost the princely sum of £4.
I then went to look for Gabriel and couldn't see him, so I looked for the car ehich wasn't where we left it. Now my rucksack, with holiday paperwork, iPad and clothes are all in there. But at least I had my passport, telephone and a certain amout if money. I niw discovered that the car can'
Be fixed so a new one is being sent, I thought from Queretera, supposedly only an hour or so away. So we went to see the old castle and public space, used for performances. More phone calls and we returned to the car. Next Gabriel suggested we walk up to the monolith that used to be used for religious ceremonies. It is very ancient. Still no car and a garbled message that someone had come and couldn't find us, so presumably gone away without phoning. 
We then just hung around with Gabriel making increasingly angry phone calls. It transpired that he had come from Mexico City. He arrived at 6.15pm, 6 hours after our arrival and got very short response to buenas tardes.
I could see this was going to be a late arrival. It took three more hours as part of the time was on rough roads, and then hairpin mountainous roads in the dark. I honestly thought we were never going to get there. I just had to find something to eat but couldn't face waiting for a dinner to be cooked, so found an offlicense selling yoghurt and peanuts and then crashed into bed! A bed big enough for a party!
In the morning I had a little wander before breakfast, it was slightly chilly but that changed later on. My breakfast consisted of fruit, scrambled eggs and beans and toast and jam. The toast flew across the room when I tried to cut it. But it was served promptly.
At 9am we set off through beautiful mountainous countryside. In the distance you vould see layers of mountains. I kept imagining them like an embroidery, going from green to grey. The countryside got greener and finally almost tropical.
We arrived at the gardens and had coffee high up overlooking the gardens.
We walked to a waterfall, where there were warnings about drugs and alcohol. Funny really given that Edward James wrote a book about trying magic mushrooms.
We spent two and a half hours exploring these stunning gardens. There was a surprise at every turn. The buildings had been created to look ancient in some ways but avant garde, and replicated plants, almost looking like something out of a dream. There were different views from different angles, and going into the buildings you got different views of the valley and is magnitude.
Later we stopped in Landa
De Matamoras where we saw the beautifully decorated church, combining indigenous and Catholic symbols.
Apparently after the Spaniards failed to conquer this region, the priests went into the area slowly and made peace and in each town they brought together the beliefs to help build a church and form a community. Each has at its centre a church, a government building and a square. Fortunately we found a little pizzeria open here for a very late lunch!
When we returned to Jalpan we visited the church there too, which is the first of those established.
I then went for a swim, where the notice said that in the event of an earthquake the pool would be dislodged and chipped! Possibly, but the actual translation should have been, cleared and closed! Interestingly I heard the next morning that Oaxaca had an earthquake last night.
The retire
Journey on Saturday too 6 hora, a Long journey. We travelled through amazing countryside, which we had missed on the way up due to it being dark. It was a winding road through the mountains with ever changing views.
When you got stuck behind a lorry, I thought that meant stuck, but my driver had a knack of getting past, although he drive at a moderate speed.
Firstly lush and green and then towards Berlan it became drier and the hills were covered in cactus.
Although I thought I had seen enough of Berlan, it was a convenient lunch stop and I found a restaurant with great views. Later I met our group of six and Victor our guide for the next part of the trip. It had a group of two Nigerian Australians, one other Australian, a US and two UK, so quite a mixture!
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