A day of surprises

Why a day of surprises- well I have learnt so much about Latvia and it's history. I had no idea of the terrible time the Baltic states had experienced during the 20th century, and how amazing it is that they have become such an advanced and apparently balanced country now. They have lurched between long periods under Russian domination and short periods under Nazi control, with loss and displacement of huge numbers if their population. We saw where the synogogue of oeople were burnt.

Our new guide Ilsa ( who sort of dings as she talks)and our driver George met us in the lobby before taking us on a tour of the city warts n all.

We began the day with a tour of all the city, visiting both the poor and more affluent areas. The poor areas contain the traditional wooden houses and the Kruschovian flats, with very little space. The story we were told is of a nation completely controlled and during totalitarian Stalinism, no allowance for people's individuality.  We learnt how much the Latvian people love the forests,  build their houses in them, go out into them and construct their cemeteries within them. They have no problem about living near  cemetries. Their ghosts come from other places!

What is lovely is that flower shops are open 24 hours per day, and you always take flowers to visit, odd numbers for normal occasions and even numbers only for funerals. So not a dozen red roses for a loved one here!  

I was relieved that I had not tried to arrange this trip independently as apparently a few hours bus or road journey can be a whole day by train. 

The railway system has changed in and out of the European gauge and is currently different! 

We drove past Stalin's tower and heard it was good for a sunset view, however later, Lindsey and I discovered the Skyline bar was even better at the 26th floor and what's more, there was no risk of silicosis from the asbestos.  And that was without leaving our hotel.

We visited the island, which has lots of relaxation and outdoor activity and is so accessible to city people. We drove around the art nouveaux area which I visited later with Lindsey and included a visit of the art nouveaux museum. We were constantly looking up at the amazing buildings.

Our guide kindly gave us a mid morning coffee break before taking us to the Cathedral for an Organ recital from  very special organ with 7000 pipes! Very atmospheric. 

Lindsey and I then sampled the student's cafeteria and ate for around 3€, very tasty and nourishing food, and felt like locals. But any money we saved got spent in the chocolate shop or the Latvian gift shop, where I left with local tea, a bottle of balsam liqueur and a ton of sprays. All  very strange but there are local food and I will enjoy them,  while favouring theses mementos.