Saturday, 15 September 2018

Traveling to and exploring Helsinki

Today the group split, eight of us travelling on to Helsinki and the rest returning home to UK. We left the hotel for the ferry port and were quite surprised by the enormous ferries. There is clearly a lot of movement between Finland (and Stockholm) and Tallin. We gather that people go shopping in Tallin, and the ferry had three freight decks.  Everything was very streamlined and efficient and we soon boarded, leaving behind the skyline of Tallin. This group seem to get on well and we were all looking out for one another now we have no tour leader.




The crossing was very smooth and took a couple of hours; we passed very little traffic, and only a few islands.
The skyline of Helsinki looked very different. Less evidence of ancient monuments, although when we investigated the city there are those from 19th century, but overall it appears a young and modern city.



We were met by Marit our guide who took us to the hotel and then straight on to a city tour, as we were too early to check in. Fortunately the early part of the tour involved a food tasting, plus a glass of wine- really good as we had not eaten. This took place in a food market built in 1898, using a similar structure to the Eifel tower.
It was full of lovely local produce and I'm sure I will return! We had a platter of four local delicacies.
Then we set about walking around the town to see the landmarks.
Statue in front of harbour, Havis Amanda, by Parisian artist, is centre if annual student celebrations.
The food market


Presidents house






Uspensky cathedral which I have not been able to see inside due to its opening hours but am told that Vilnius was better.




Lutheran cathedral which looked stunning in the sun but was very plain inside.

Saw this on a street cornet and couldnt resist a photo. Clearly someone has a sense of humour. This could be your last drink!

Parliament building. Well our guide said the ministers were to be seen in steps between debates but in actually found another building further out today. 

Looks very Russian to me, although Finland has been independent for 100 years after the previous 110 under Russian rule.

National theatre


Central Station,( I visited again Saturday as I thought there was a tourist information kiosk. But the only likely building was closed, so I asked st a souvenir stall. The man very politely told me to walk a few pages around the corner, find a metal box and push a button, which I did. And out popped a folded map, free of charge! How wonderful).

We then found our way to the top of the shopping centre to have tea and cake with a view, but the latter was missing!
Our return to the hotel was a little disorganised. Our guide had left us and there was a lot of questions about a credit card, but since all was paid by the travel company we refused lest they added charges,. It reminded me of the US where they made an automatic charge for maid service and the local parks and gardens!
I spent a little time trying to make a plan of action for the morning with an inadequate map, then went off on search of food! After a wander round the block a couple of times, I settled on a Finnish restaurant where I had little fishes with mashed potatoes and a berry desert. Another couple from our group spotted me and insisted on getting the restaurant to rearrange us to sit together! Her name is Carolyn, and they live in Guildford. Am spreading the word about the Ometepe project too!

Once I had my new map on Sunday I was fine. I marked up a plan of campaign with a bit of variety and making the most of the fine weather, although it was only 9° when I got up, so added my extra layers. I started at the Ateneum, a gallery of Finnish Art. It had some international paintings too and  followed the development of their national art from the 19th century romantic realism to the current day. I picked out a few I particularly liked and noted a few names.








After this I decided to go to the Sibelius monument which involved about a mile and a half of walking, through developing parts of the outer city. I stopped frequently to check the road names which demands much more careful attention than normal!
But I eventually arrived, helped by the spotting of a tour bus, and found a most interesting sculpture set in a green area by the sea. It looked like a collection of organ pipes. The view here was stunning, with blue sky, the sea, boats and islands so I enjoyed it for a while.





Remembering my intended boat trip I then made a hasty stride back to the harbour, arriving with 5 minutes to spare. It was a bit of an extravagance at 20€ for the trip plus lunch which was nearly 50€ for 2 courses and a glass of wine. But the food was lovely, salmon soup and fried fish, pike I think. There is no doubt that Helsinki is a more expensive city. A coffee us 4€, a meal 40-50€. 
  There was a commentary on the boat about what we were passing, and for an hour and a half we travelled around the islands to the Eastern archipelago, I had not realised that Helsinki was comprised of so many islands. Many had buildings, hotels, and a lot of sailing.some of these can also be reached by bus via bridges and causeways.  The trip gave me some relaxation after my efforts of walking to the memorial!

 My boat, the HMV Doris, not sure that's Finnish?




We passed some of the cruise ship terminals, apparently amongst the biggest in the world.

On return I went up to the Upensky cathedral, only to find it was too late to go inside and it is closed tomorrow. I then explored the streets in the peninsula behind and there were some amazing arts and crafts buildings. This is another city to look upwards in!



I walked along the promenade taking in the views, intending to cut back across the middle but was failing to find any of the roads on my map. So I used the reference points of the sea and the cathedral. It was only as I left the peninsula that I realised I had been looking at the wrong peninsula on the map! Which explained a lot......

I checked out the city museum to find that the hours have been changed tomorrow so that's off, then went inside the Lutheran cathedral which is pretty plain as you might expect. That was enough for one day and my legs were complaining, so I now have to identify some potential indoor activities for tomorrow. The market is one and failing all else I might have a look round the Finnish department store, most galleries and museums appear to  be closed.  After an evening stroll I settled with a glass of wine and was joined later by Bill and Sandra, sharing today's experiences and other holiday adventures.

Our final day was wet, supposed to be showers but one long shower. First headed for Stockman's , Helsinki's answer to Harrods where I found many expensive items, but came out with a pretty pair of evening socks. Well, I don't go shopping at home do it is a useful treat. I then checked out before heading to the old market for a little bit more shopping of Finnish goods. En route I had two interesting experiences. Firstly a young lady in highly sophisticated clothing, sleeveless dress, fancy shoes, was in the street with an umbrella. I then realised she was from one of the fancy fashion shoos. She was wearing surgical gloves, and with scissors was dead heading cyclamen. It was the most elegant gardening I have seen. The other experience was soldiers marching, which I discovered was in aid of an official German visit. I later had to make a detour as a police car blocked the street. He said it was because the president was coming.  I photographed the latter, but couldn't do the former surreptitiously.


After a first into some craft shops I visited the City Museum where I learnt more about Helsinki. That allowed time for lunch before heading back to the hotel for pick up.

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