Saturday, 28 September 2019

Adventures in Montreal.

Well I had a funny feeling when I arrived here and so far it has been a series of interesting challenges. To start with it's very French and I am struggling to remember mine. The taxi driver had significant difficulty delivering me to the hotel as the traffic was gridlocked, and then deposited me in the street in the rain leaving me to manage my suitcase up the steps! Oh yes, French culture I thought!  But on the plus side my room was ready so I decanted everything and went exploring . I spied a swimming pool sign and followed it to an external door.  Oh well perhaps it's in a separate building I thought. Now I remember this experience during a fire evacuation in Brisbane. I hovered and thought, I must be able to get back in. But no, the door closed and locked. The swimming pool was outside and behind a railed fence. The car park was down a wooded slope and the gate was shut and held with cable ties, my pen knife was in my other bag.  The side gate I found was also chained and locked and all the function rooms were empty!  I looked up at the 8 floors of windows, not a face to be seen!
My only option was to make a phone call. So I called reception and they sent the maintenance man. Apparently the doors and gates should have been open. I began to feel like someone in a Mr Bean comedy.......
My next step was to book a walking tour of the old town tomorrow as the weather forecast is good, but it was  not available at 10.30am,  so I booked for 12.30, and during the afternoon formed a plan of what I was going to do.  But that all changed with the phone call later which said there were not enough people. But they offered me a free bus tour instead.
Meanwhile, to make the most of a wet afternoon I visited the Museé de Beaux Artes.  I got in free as a senior, and spent a while looking at the Canadian Art, both Inuit and the various schools that developed . The gallery itself was an amazing conversion around three old buildings. However all parts are joined by galleries below ground, so finding your way to the section you want is a bit tricky. I joined a couple of Japanese girls in the lift, and it went down and down, we wanted up. When we eventually went up, we were hastily ushered back in by a museum attendant who told us to go back down. We all looked very puzzled. Eventually I worked out the system!


Oh yes, I discovered the Group of Seven were a group of nine and that Emily Carr was associated with them, not part of the Group. So really it's the Group of 7+2+1!

After this I was rather hungry having had brunch on  the train, and so many adventures,  so I went in search of food identifying the location of other sites en route, including this urban forest near another museum.


 I tried Tim Hortons but that was only burgers, but found a little pizza bar around the corner. It was great as  I watched him make my pizza and he talked about how to get to various places. His comment was,   it's a lovely city once you find your way around. I can see what he means.


Later I found the contemporary Art museum, which had video, audio and graphic exhibitions and installations. They were all very powerful, one making me revise my French as it had  lot of writing, and the others were narratives of the first nations. very powerful indeed.   I made a circuitous trip home through the many high rise buildings calling in at an IHG supermarket, much more French than the one in Banff. Now I discover that my curtains are decorative and don't pull. I want to black out the room plus there is another high rise behind. I knew my rotary pin would be useful! But when I was investigating if I could open a window in the night, I found some blackout curtains behind the nets! Funny place to have them.



It always helps to have a half a day at a new place as it allows you to become oriented and plan. So after a breakfast in my room I headed off for the bus, allowing time to visit the Cathedral Marie Reine du Monde.

I discovered later that it is a replica of St Peter's, Rome,  but a quarter of the size. Hence it is used in films. As I passed the neighbouring square there was music and stalls and a lot of activity, so I asked what was going on. A young lady said it was a charity activity for diabetes so would I like to collect a free coffee. One of the coffee shops had set up a van and was giving away coffee and pastries, so I collected these and gave them a donation. Seemed like a fair exchange. With the help of Google I found the bus point at the info office, where I had to explain my situation.  The first person didn't seem to believe me, so I thought, ' how could I have made this up. ?'  Fortunately her boss was more clued up, but I did have to pay the cost of the walking tour so it wasn't exactly free! I collected a range of maps here! 
So I got on a bus, heading for Upton Park, now that would have made Albert laugh! 
We made fairly slow progress through the streets as traffic was bad, there is loads of construction and today they were preparing for a climate change protest.  Our guide seemed to paint Montreal as a city of contuous shopping, eating and partying. There are underground malls, skyscraper malls, fashion boutiques, all very commercial. Some underground shopping malls are accessed through old churches which cannot be pulled down but are no longer used. I think that reminds me of a story in the bible! Not sure I agree with that. 

I left the bus at St Joseph's oratory on Mont Royal or the mountain as the locals call it. It was a long way out and I could never have got to it without the bus. It has one of the biggest domes in the world, but is fairly modern, and I really liked the inside, although the guide said it was plain. There are 283,steps which I climbed, as do the pilgrims every year.




There were terrific views from the top.

The next bus seemed to have been affected by the traffic so I stood chatting to a couple from Virginia who were up for the weekend. Eventually it arrived and I returned to the info office and walked to the Hotel de Ville, where I went to floor 46 for a panorama of Montreal. What an experience!





I could also see the beginning of the march which I got caught up with later,  when heading for Plateau Mont Royal, the area to the side of Mont Royal.  
On the way I passed a Japanese hot dog shop! Maybe Japanes isn't as difficult as I thought! 

The plateau was described as an area of alternative and quirky shops, restaurants and wall art, and it didn't disappoint. There were many sights, sounds and smells, (well pot is legal here).  I must have walked miles just taking in the ambience.


I stopped for lunch at a French restaurant although there were all nationalities, including a Salvadorian! It really does seem like French culture, I stood waiting to be seated for some time as waitresses walked past me and it took ages to serve. However I wasn't in a hurry and the rest fortified me for my long return journey.


And I even found one of the cat cafes.

I returned home through familiar territory recording a couple more significant artworks.
This outside the university,

And yes, it's Leonard Cohen who is revered here as a poet, and I wholeheartedly agree with that.  Tomorrow it's the old town and I must get to the McCord museum. And that will be a good flavour of Montreal. It is big and spread out, so a few key experiences are all that is possible. 
Today was wet all day but I headed off, and started by finding part of 'underground Montreal realising that the station is less than a 15 minute walk. So actually quicker than the taxi I took on arrival. Whilst there I enquired about tomorrow's arrangements.  After this I walked to the old town where I found the Basilica but decided I had earned a coffee first and there was a large tourist group waiting to go in the Basilica ! 


It was a cosy little cafe selling lots of quirky things.  The girl making coffee had fallen off her bike so was managing one handed, it looked challenging.
I went into the Basilica of Notre Dame, Montreal's most significant church, and it really had the wow a factor.  The carvings were stunning and the colours magnificent. I opted for the guided tour. The church seats 3200 people and the organ 1648 pipes! I was lucky to visit when I did, as it was closing at 12 today for a private wedding. 





From here I explored the various streets and significant buildings before heading to the port.


Not quite the weather for a day on the beach, even an artificial one. Nor was the view of the St Lawrence River at its best!

 After a quick visit to the Chapel Notre Dame de Bonsecours,

And the Marché Bonsecours, I was ready for a lunch and a dry off. I found Creperie Suzanne, after peering into other more pretentious places charging high tourist prices, and deciding I was not sufficiently smart to grace their doors.  And this was cosy, friendly, with a lovely waiter. So I had quiche and salad, quickly prepared and a nice glass of wine then indulged in a rather unusual pudding. This gave me time to get dried off nicely. But despite its better pricing, with a tip, 2 course lunch, coffee and wine it was nearly £30. Prices are high here in the cities, for sure.

I was feeling quite reticent about heading out into the rain again, so studied the map and discovered I wasn't too far from a metro station, and from here I could get to my next stop for the day, the McCord museum downtown, and near my hotel.
Before this,  I visited the Chateau Ramezay, which gave some history of the  city, although it was a bit muddly.


I walked partway to the metro and watched two people disappearing through a doorway but knew it wasn't the station.  So I investigated and found it was one of the subways which would take me to the metro. Apparently there are miles of subterranean tunnels, which link parts of the city, and the shops, metros and malls, meaning you can be like a mole and rarely come up for daylight. Today that was particularly appropriate!
I decided to ask about the trains and was given good guidance and quickly grasped the plan, just like Paris, you need to know the ultimate destination for your line.

So I then enjoyed some time in the McCord museum which had a particularly good exhibition about the cultural significance of clothing amongst the first nations. It displayed various pieces,  intricately worked and given, for example, when a baby was born ( embroidered hat), on being given a position, or some other significant life event.   Many items were passed from generation to generation, exquisitely worked,  many with beading, and young girls would all own a sewing kit and knife to prepare animal parts and sew garments and accessories. 




There was also Haida exhibition about the art of the West Coast. Much of this I had seen in Vancouver. 
So draws to a close my sojourn in Montreal, and I am satisfied I have seen all I particularly wanted to, and have planned it all myself. I popped into a lovely little cafe next to the hotel where I was made the best and largest cup of tea I've had since arriving! 
Couple of more funny experiences. Yesterday I went down in the lift and clearly chose breakfast time when it was stopping at every floor.  And then proceeded  to go up and down to all floors! My fellow resident who got in with me looked very surprised that I didn't get out. Obviously thought I was very confused! I had to explain that I had forgotten  my rucksack, so had to go back up and repeat the process again! 😂

Next time was even funnier, as I was joined by one of the coach drivers for a tour group who was very chatty. It was his day off, but we were obviously joined by members of his tour group, a Spanish speaking group. H e said they were from France but I'm not sure he was right! Anyway he kept telling us to squash up til It looked like a  Guiness Book of Records for how many elephants will fit in a telephone box!  He gave me a cheery wave this morning as I headed to the station and he loaded up his coach.  There really is something to chuckle about every day!  

And today's chuckle was seeing some very loud Americans walk into the business lounge and help themselves to a paper and drink. When the receptionist checked their ticket, it was economy, so they were sent away empty handed.  Yes perhaps you don't own the world mister!  

Moving on......

Thursday, 26 September 2019

Toronto to Ottawa.

Well we got up early enough and left half an hour earlier than intended, and just as well too. What apauling traffic going into Toronto. A journey Patrick said should take 5 mins took more than 2 hours. My eyes fixed on the CN tower as we approached the city but just didn't seem to get nearer! Then suddenly we were there, and I had to leap out, as Patrick could only drop me off. Anyway it avoided a prolonged goodbye and I dashed in to find where the departure was from, then seeing there was a long queue headed to the washrooms. As I was in car 1 I had a longer walk, and fortunately the attendant helped me with my luggage. The trains are really high and they put a small step to help you up. It's quite a clamber!
I found myself next to a lovely older lady who had been visiting her son; she got out at an earlier Ottawa stop. The train really belted along  and arrived on time.
No sooner had we got on than the drinks trolley arrived; 11am was a bit early for me but the attendant got my coffee after he had finished his rounds.  Then later served lunch with a choice, and by this time I was happy to have wine.
On arrival, I checked my departure arrangements. Fortunately this time it's only a 10 minute taxi ride.  My taxi driver was quite chatty suggesting useful ideas for exploring  and I was greeted by the doorman at the hotel.  The Lord Elgin is a bit posh and I think $20+ for breakfast is the steepest price yet. So having brought some little muesli packets from Patrick's, I decided to seek out the supermarket.  I now have my mental list of questions ready for arrival, water, map, Wi-Fi, breakfast, so having gathered the information I settled in and went to explore. 
There is a canal walk a short distance away, but I made the mistake of taking the road on the wrong level, so went through the shopping centre and came down to the lower level. However this all came in useful later on and helped eith my orientation. I found the gallery and enquired about the time needed as well as getting a






brochure, then I went over the road to the rather OTT cathedral. From here I found the Byward market area which will definitely be on my list tomorrow, maybe for lunch. My search for a supermarket was a bit challenging. First I found a Polish supermarket, then a gourmet grocer, but neither of them had what I  wanted.  So I decided to search the area on the other side of the hotel. This contained ethnic shops and restaurants, rather a lot of down and outs and lots of roadworks. But lo and behold there was a mini market. When I came out, I visited  the Meow cafe for a pear tart and tea, although it  looked like Capuccino. It was an oriental cafe and I think  the  milk was heated and whisked, different. Perhaps it's the drink Buchart gardens called London Fog.

I returned to the hotel for a swim, then a little snack from my shopping. 
The next  morning I left just after 9am and returned after 7pm, am not sure where the time went. I had decided I wasn't making a route march of it and I would let the day lead me. I was early so walked along the canal. At the end I met someone putting up signs and gang planks for the boats so made an enquiry. I did return. Then having popped up some steps to the road, the ticket booth for my bus trip magically appeared. I zipped off for a quick coffee, well that was the intention. However the arts centre cafe was very slow, and I almost got overlooked!
Once on the bus I settled in for the tour until we arrived at the art gallery enjoying the sights en route. 
The parliament building. The Tower is called the Peace Tower. Apparently you can put your name down to have the flag when it comes down, in about 70 years time!


The war museum, the little windows on the roof spell out Lest we Forget, in Morse code. There is some amazing architecture here. The history museum is shaped like an upturned canoe. 

The entrance to the art gallery.

Depictions of historical scenes

Including logging,

Traditional costumes

Modern works, this one reminded me of the many forests I passed through.

Inuit paintings....I love the simplicity and dignificance of these. I read that these people don't like the area being called a wasteland, as to them it is full of colour.


After this I walked back to see the Rideaux waterfalls but actually got a better view on the boat cruise tonight.

  From here I walked to Byward market to find lunch.  I turned down side streets, and it is here you often see pretty little houses.

And arrived at the market which had amazing fresh produce, pity I bought mine yesterday.
Halloween preparations.
I loved the little pots of mixed berries at $3.

I then went in search of a replacement travel handbag, as mine broke yesterday and ended up getting something worthwhile.  That meant a thorough search of all its pockets before discarding it!

I returned to the gallery for the bus and to complete the circuit, which took us out to Lansdowne park and the lake which becomes an ice rink in the winter.  When I got to the end of the tour , I was just in time to walk down for a boat cruise to complete my day. This gave a completely different  perspective of the city.






Next , another train,  to Montreal for three nights, another city to explore. Arrived at station, completely different system.  Here I do book my luggage in, and after  buying coffee, I discover there's a business lounge with free coffee. Well at least I was able to leave my rucksack safely whilst I went in search of my hotel voucher, dropped as I moved from one counter to another.  Less impressed by the person who asked me to move because their group needed the seats, only to see they wanted to spread out.  Obviously the snooty end of business class.  Got chatting to young chap from Jersey with a lot of luggage in the baggage queue!   His excuse was travelling for three and a half months.  Actually however long I was travelling, I could manage perfectly well with what I have. 
Brunch and coffee have been served and we are again passing through countryside with fields, crops and livestock that could almost be England.