A Happy Christmas from Tikal Jungle Lodge, Northern Guatemala

I thought it was time to send Christmas greetings, particularly as phone calls have proved a little difficult. This is partially attributable to wifi in only a couple of spots and also the fact that electricity is not on all the time, plus I have been out or travelling during the critical period. I have borrowed a rechargeable torch as mine gives a rather pathetic spot of light and yesterday evening I began showering by torchlight. We were told the power goes off 10-6 overnight but that is not quite accurate. It actually seems to go off at 9pm but also for periods in between meals during the day, which is of little consequence as I'm often not here. And I'm always fast asleep by 9pm!

My cabin is very pleasant and set in the jungle and yesterday evening there was a monkey in the palm tree throwing things at my roof.

When I got in yesterday I found the clothes rail in my wardrobe had somehow emptied all my clothes into the bottom, yet the rail was still in place, despite the fact the hangers were attached by rings. I wondered about the monkey or the earth tremors that had apparently occurred ( they are a daily feature but I haven't noticed them) or the fact that the Mayan people still make sacrifices with Shamans- had something weird occurred?

I arrived here after a long day on Wednesday when I was met after my flight from Managua at Guatamala City (business class again). Winston clearly set out to show me everything in Guatamala city during the course of the day. However he was thwarted by some unforeseen closures of certain museums. Nevertheless we managed to visit the Archeological museum which gave a good background to the Mayan culture, and the Rozas Botran Foundation, a modern art gallery, which had an exhibition of modern Central American art and a section about Carlos Merida who had introduced cubism to Guatamala after meeting Picasso in Paris. Despite the textile museum being closed I did manage to see some textiles. But in all Guatamala city didn't strike me as a city of note.

These museums would have been sufficient, but I was whisked off to see various other buildings and in the middle of this I was taken to a restaurant where they alternated between Peruvian pipe music and marimba music, all at full volume. Given that the restaurant was packed and conversation lively ,the noise level was significant! I was introduced to a national meal Kak-Ik which consisted of soup with turkey in it, accompanied by rice and tomillas, maize patties. Another nation that seems to have a hearty appetite.

Next I was taken to a scale model of the country created by a man called Frances Vela which was interesting, but in the meantime I had been told that my forthcoming flight was the one for which I needed to reduce my luggage. My itinerary wasn't quite accurate, so I had visions of arriving here with the one change of clothing I had in my rucksack! Or alternatively repacking at the airport.

 I needn't have panicked, as when we eventually arrived my suitcase was accepted without question. But I think my guide and driver miscalculated the traffic, which apparently was particularly high leading up to Christmas. I think they were having a difference of opinion, as we sped through various interesting back streets of Guatamala city, taking short cuts that weren't, arriving at the airport with little time to spare. I breathed a sigh of relief and had a few minutes peace before boarding.  When I looked out of the window I wondered which craft I would be boarding?

Well it was a 50 minute flight in the small plane ( about 20 passengers), which even had Christmas decorations inside! After this I was collected by Nixon who took me to the Jungle Lodge, which is inside the Tikal National Park. So every time I enter they try to charge me an entry fee so I have to explain that it is included in my stay.

Now....... Why did the tarantula cross the road? ......... Well to get to the other side and turn round and go back again of course.  This is what we watched from the bus on the way in the dark ! My driver said he had twice seen a jaguar but one of my guides said there were in fact, five wild cats that could be seen here if you were really lucky.

Yesterday and today I have been visiting the Mayan sites which are fascinating. Yesterday Manuel took me to Yaxha and Topoxta, less visited sites where we saw buildings still buried and those that had been excavated. The history is fascinating. Manuel looked as if he was about 80 but seemed to have plenty of energy. I was exhausted after about 5 hours of walking and climbing monuments in the heat and humidity and each time I thought I might decide not to climb, he said something to the effect that this was a view not to be missed. Our first site involved a lovely boat trip to a tranquil island.

This last one I climbed to the top which was a bit like mountaineering and even worse coming down.  This morning my legs were so stiff that I tried going up steps using my left foot, my right buttock feeling like something had kicked me. Still as the waiter at breakfast said, it's good for me and I will be fit when I go home. Very positive people again!

Today I was met by Carlos and we walked into the site beside the hotel which was the centre of the Mayan culture ,Tikal. More fascinating information about a culture that began 900 years BC. Carlos promised not to make me climb so many steps and was very good at stopping for a rest periodically. He did invite me to go round the back of the temple to see the pythons- now that's a new line in chat up! However they couldn't be seen at that point although I did see the photos from another couple whom I had seen at the hotel. I was not sorry to have missed them and certainly had no plans to climb more stairs to see them.

I was standing very close to the edge of a steep pyramid which might explain the slightly tense expression! No health and safety here and I had read that many tourists have been killed falling from the ruins.

Within the complex there are three types of buildings, astronomical, sacrificial and residential. The Mayans used to build over each layer every 20 years so the structures have layer upon layer of buildings, some of which have been excavated. Some they cannot excavate as, if they remove the trees, where the roots have penetrated, the buildings will just collapse. What is most amazing is that they have been discovered at all.

So my Christmas Eve is a relaxing time by the pool and tomorrow morning is free too. I then transfer back to Flores for the night for an early flight on Boxing Day to Lake Atitlan via Guatamala City. Nothing here seems to close at all. Tonight is a special meal for Buena Noche.

Happy Christmas and a Peaceful New Year to everyone!