The week

On Monday, some of us went for an evening walk through the grounds and on to the neighbouring property. From here you can see the smoke and glow from the Masaya volcano. A group are going later to visit the crater by night.

 I am not going, as visited last year and although I imagine it will be very good at night I can't do everything. The programme of activities is full and I have homework. Also I quite like some peaceful time without everyone around, especially the children!

I am sitting in the garden at 6.30, I tend to go to sleep at 8.30 and am awake by 5am, so make the most of daylight! One of the cleaning ladies did my washing, but the bits I did myself took two days to dry. I have now spotted the mangle so that will be useful next time!

Here she is beavering away in the outside sinks. There are no machines here and our hot water is solar powered, so on cloudy days you get a cool shower!

Yesterday was sunny and breezy so it was better, but humidity is high. I put my line across the window, but if I don't shut them before dark, I am joined by the local wildlife or cats and dogs who live here! I have now spotted and used the mangle, not quite up to washing machine standards but home will seem like magic!

We had an interesting visit to the local pineapple farm and learnt all about the production. It produces white pineapple which are both cheaper to produce and to buy on the market. Interestingly the crop takes 18 months to mature and then they crop regularly for several years. There is no irrigation as the pineapple plants cover the soil and retain moisture from the rainy season. We saw piles of pineapples that had been harvested for the next day's market, the smell was delicious. We ended the visit with a bowl of fresh pineapple!

Wilmer the farmer. I understood most of what he told us.

The lovely countryside.

I learnt a lot about Nicaragua this morning, as I had borrowed and read a book about the revolution. I asked my conversation teacher, who told me more. Although life has improved over recent years, as in Costa Rica, the teachers cannot afford cars or holidays. My grammar teacher was also telling me I could get my hair cut for 1$ here!

I have been reading some interesting information in the newspaper about illness statistics. In Nicaragua Dengue fever is the highest, and 3x higher than Zika which has had all the publicity. Chikungunya is another mosquito born disease which has less than 1000 cases. Interestingly there are more deaths from pneumonia here than anything but only 174 deaths overall. It is always useful to get things in perspective. Having said that I am being generous with the repellant.

On Wednesday we visited the cañada del ondo, an area of forest the school has purchased to preserve the potable water supply. Apparently because of demand for dragon fruits at high prices in the USA, a lot of forest is being cleared for these trees. It's frightening how the demands of the developed world affects less developed countries. The owner said, that she faces quizzical looks sometimes for trying to persuade the locals to retain their ways of life which they have come to see as old fashioned. In her words, everyone has told them for years to change and now she is telling them to retain some of their past practices for the benefit of their country's future! We had a great walk with good views.

Yesterday was a superb day and I once more added to my skills. We had an afternoon visiting various artesan villages. We first visited a stone sculptor, who must have been absent on the day off the health and safety training!

Then we went to a potters, where I took my turn!

It didn't turn out too badly. It was really interesting as all the decoration was done before firing including polishing, with no glaze. It was baked n a brick oven outside. I succumbed to some purchases. It is very light and apparently western world machine proof!

This was followed by a visit to Niquinohomo, the home of the revolutionary, Sandino, which I found very interesting. I followed up today with a 1-1 history lesson, which has filled in many gaps.

I also visited the church...

And finished off with a meal in a restaurant overlooking the lake, which we are visiting for the day tomorrow. So will take books, costume and paints with me !

Lessons are going very well. I think I have cracked the subjunctive, and am also revising and clarifying other aspects of grammar and verb construction. It's a rewarding and profitable was to spend time.

The gap in communications is attributable to weak wifi.

Moving on- it all came good in the end!

This morning I left Ometepe and it was to prove a challenging day but all worked out in the end! En route to the ferry, the driver received a call to say my ferry was cancelled and I had to wait for the next one. This happened last year, but this time I was being collected by someone else. My driver tried to call but could get no answer from the school. We wanted to forestall their departure.

I felt in no mans land, so turned on the data switches on my phone to try to make contact. It was an emergency after all. Neither phone calls or e mails would get through, so eventually I used my google address. The response wasn't what I had hoped. It went something like this.

Evident confusion that I needed collection, the driver is running late, now the driver is returning as you are not there, my reply ' am I going to be stranded'. The driver kindly returned for my late arrival but it turned out he had a family commitment which would explain why he broke all records to get me there, in a minibus with only driver seat belts! I had thought I might need to find the chap who had offered to help me get a taxi, when I was awaiting the ferry!

The belligerent side of me was contemplating not going if they had left me stranded, but it didn't come to that. The owner, Paulette was waiting to greet me and the cook, Maricole had saved me lunch. So I was settled in and shown round. It is a most interesting situation, with a large residential building opening onto a verandah and teaching areas both inside and in the gardens. There are also lovely grounds, lots of animals, a dining area and lots of sitting areas. Water and drinks are avaible and there is an honesty system for alcohol. There is hot water, I have a blanket on my bed, a mosquito net and an array of furniture, lights and mirrors and a lockable drawer for valuables. So probably the best accommodation I have had  in Nicaragua so far ! There are a couple of families and a few other single people. Everyone seems friendly and there are activities every day after classes. 

The story is amazing, as the Englishwoman who owns it, sold up at home and set up a project to help the local people by offering employment and by running an organisation on environmental lines. She takes no salary, just her food and accommodation and is continually improving the school. For example she has recently purchased a large area of forest to help protect and replant it, and has a reserve where you can see the wildlife and where the vegetables we eat are grown.

She also has a number of rehoused animals, monkeys, parrots, toucans, some of which will be freed when ready. Yesterday we walked around the garden and also to the reserve. There are also several dogs and cats which great me with enthusiasm when I go to the kitchen to make tea in the morning and, having left my windows open to dry washing yesterday, found a cat curled up on the bed, who was most put out when I removed her to the verandah!

Yesterday, in my spare time, I managed to explore the local area so walked about 20 minutes uphill to La Concha, where there are some shops, an ATM , barbers, mobile phone shops, motor repair shops and some stalls. It's not the centre of the universe!

However there must be some culture here.....

This afternoon, I am visiting a pineapple farm, another day there is a trip to an artesan village and on Saturday we can go to the lake resort for swimming and relaxing. There is plenty to do so fitting in the homework could be a challenge! Plus I have been given books to read and I have borrowed some about Nicaraguan history. There is a once a week lecture on that subject too.

The spirit of adventure lives on!

After the spider incident I realised my glasses were missing and of course all sorts of thoughts went through my mind, monkeys perhaps!

Anyway after a bit of packing and repacking I discovered them under the bed, somewhere I had been cautious about looking after the spider incident. After a final walk and breakfast, I paid my small bill and chatted with the proprietors. He knew about La Mariposa and said what a good business venture it was, part of the Nicaraguan tourism promotion. So that's encouraging.

She then told me about her project promoting arts and culture of Solentiname with the children of The islands. This encourages tourism and therefore helps raise the families out of poverty, badly needed.

At 9 I left by panga travelling across the lake for an hour. We stopped off at another island en route to pick up a permit. It was a bit choppy and my unpadded bum has suffered from hard seats bouncing across waves! As we got to the far side to El Colon, there was a bit of discussion and it appeared that as a result of the hurricane, the river mouth had spread, so they had to negotiate carefully. I had heard that we were to reconnoitre at a 'station' and had in mind some kind of town. How wrong could I be! 

We pulled into a jetty by some fields, where two soldiers with guns appeared. They duly checked the papers and my passport, the first of about six checks. Apparently there is a lot of immigration across the border from Costa Rica in this area. Next we had to cross the field where the path had vanished under water in parts. Nestor carried my case on his shoulder and the hotel proprietor tried to find a way. Jimmy thought the whole thing rather fun, and I just told them not to worry, if we ran quickly through the water we wouldn't get too wet!

We duly arrived at the meeting point where there was a shed and a couple of lorries, no mobile phone signal either. I thought they might have to take me back, but the car arrived with Ramiro driving, about 10 minutes later. No banos, and in fact not until we reached San Jorge for the ferry, two and a half hours later. The road was unmade and boggy, with many fallen trees from the hurricane for most of the way. Just the last half hour on asphalt. Fortunately I had snaffled a few grapes from my breakfast and had some nuts and biscuits which had to suffice for lunch. 

When we arrived at the ferry port, Jose was there to meet me. He had come over from Ometepe, although did confuse me by saying he was Antonio, Jose Antonio I discovered! Anyway he remembers our walk to the waterfall last year and how I had been wearing the same clothes with a white top. He was correct!

There were lovely views from the ferry but it was full of youngsters who go for the beaches and partying!!

I did get chatting to a few young Americans and gave thema but if advice about making the most of their opportunities. One of them began talking about his mum who was in education, but I think I was more like their grandmother! I expect it will give them something to talk about- this oldie they met who goes off travelling.

 We were met by Wilbur, who, I also met last year. One little glitch was that, although the company had booked the guide for me, as I had not chosen their standard tours, there had been no transport booked. So I had to talk to their office to book that, so now I will need an ATM for a cash top up. At least they have them here, there was nothing in Solentiname. I have since her from Sarah, my English contact, that this isn't correct, but I will leave them to sort that out.

When I arrived at la Omaja, I was welcomed with open arms and a big hug from Horatio, the young man who works here.

My  first priority was a hot shower, my second was a glass of wine and supper. All duly fulfilled and a very pleasant evening and an interesting encounter. I chatted to an American woman who lives in Ometepe and runs classes for the community. She showed me her figures and how she was working with dance, art and cultural activities but through teaching English too. It sounded very interesting so we exchanged information. I might get a Christmas invitation too, we will wait and see. So in all 24 hours of rapid change, the contrast from Solentiname to Ometepe was surprising, given that last year I thought Ometepe pretty laid back! It feels like Piccadilly Circus after Solentiname! And all those amazing encounters with interesting people, perhaps some future opportunities.....

My first day I visited some ancient statues in Altagracia, one of the main towns in the area. It was very small, with a children's park in the middle. The football pitch is used for drying frijoles, the local beans, part of the time and football the other part. There were more nativity scenes, and we saw the town hall and maternity building.  That was interesting, as the mothers are encouraged to come here for two weeks before the birth. They may then go to a hospital, which depending on the level of need may be locally, at Rivas on the mainland or in Managua. There are also women trained as midwives for less accessible areas. Some of this infrastructure is provided to ensure there is an accurate record of births.

Next we visited Punta Jesus Maria which has a spit of volcanic sand. Jose found pieces of ancient pottery which is quite a regular occurrence. However, occasionally complete pots are found.

We stopped for a coffee at the beach cafe, where two coffees cost 1$!

There are interesting sights on the road, often cows returning from their morning saunter to the beach, or pigs and chickens.

Or sometimes monkeys; this one was part of a large family and is carrying a baby under her. ( unable to insert video here at present). We saw one, dangling by his tail as he ate the leaves. What a show off!

This trip finished with lunch at the beach hotel Chaco Verde, what a beautiful spot!.

My second day here will stand out as one of the highlights of my travels, just like the Mayan ceremony last year. After a walk at Chaco Verde I visited a local indigenous community, called Los Ramos. They have two villages as they were rehoused after a landslide from the volcanos, but many villagers return to the old part in the summer. I must say the old part has much more character with little dwellings that look as if they have gradually grown up around a family, whereas the new is neat and tidy tows of concrete houses! On arrival we were welcomed and saw the garden complete with dogs, cats, chickens and pigs. Jose had already explained how the families keep these so that have meat for special occasions, when a person licensed to do so kills the animals . In some villages there is common ground for grazing. Meat is eaten on Saturday and special occasions, chicken is more common and fish is readily available. Jose described how the poor here are in a better position than the city, as the plantain is really freely available to them, they have fish, vegetables they grow and can keep animals. People here don't spend money feeding animals. Jose said his dog loves plantain with sugar! Our animals are obviously as pampered as we are..

Then I met Esperanza with whom I was to cook a traditional meal of Nacatamal. I think everyone thought I was just going to ask a few questions and leave but I helped with the whole process then we all sat down to eat. The kitchen was an outbuilding with a stone oven, lit by a wood fire, where all the cooking is done. There is no running water and water is brought by tanker. So everything is carefully conserved. I was brought soap and water in a small bowl to wash, then a small amount of water was poured over my hands to rinse them. The towel was a discarded garment. But hygiene was not compromised.

Esperanza had cooked the meat and rice earlier because of the time it took, but we prepared the maize paste and vegetables and assembled the parcels. All of this was done outside in an area between the house and the kitchen with the animals around our feet, no doubt eating anything that fell! At various times members of the extended family walked through as they all lived in the adjoining properties. Everyone just walked from one home to the next.

Assembled parcels, Maize paste, rice, meat, potatoes, onion and tomatoes, topped with mint and then tied into a plantain leaf.

Completed parcels ready for cooking.

As the cooking took an hour, dad came to serenade me with his guitar. He gave me a hibiscus flower then sang some traditional songs. As he put it, this is what we did for romance before the mobile phone! Sadly he is the only one left of a misucal group and at 86 he is a small and wrinkled old man, as a result of a hard life no doubt. But he seemed very happy and had a wicked sense of humour. Later he had a lift with us back to the other village.

The proof of the pudding....I sat with Jose and the driver to eat what I had prepared and it was delicious. Jose is to send me the recipe. We sat with the animals running in and out. I wondered if the piglet realised that some people were eating one of its brothers! The room had a large water tank in one corner, a little table with two wooden chairs, more plastic ones were brought in from outside. A clean white tablecloth had been out on the table and two China cups, which seemed like the only ones around.  The only other furniture was a small cupboard, and the windows had just chicken wire. But in this simple home they clearly ate well and I felt quite comfortable and honoured to be allowed to share this with them. I am sure I have had a much better time than the youngsters partying!

Part way through the process, I had broken a off to meet the man with the bull. He was a big strong man and so was the bull! He helped me onto the bull and later lifted me off! I sat on a wooden frame with a cloth over it. Apparently a leather saddle would slide because the bull lumbers and it was quite difficult to stay upright. But he was very docile and his hair went from back to front, I was surprised to find. The bulls are used because of the huge weight they can carry, the family and all their belongings. They are brought up with the family and the children are accustomed to being with them from when they are very young. They are castrated so more controllable. But this was an experience I had not anticipated and even the driver was surprised as he had not seem anyone do this before. The previous day's driver had also chuckled when I took up the opportunity. I just said life was for filling with new experiences and I should never pass an opportunity!

Whilst we were waiting for lunch the youngest family member decided to ride her horse, and asked me to watch. She was so confident and ride with such poise. But the horse looked a bit skinny!

Then Jose took me to the local beach that the villagers use to fish from and do their washing. This is where he and his brother in law are going to open their kayak business. They have borrowed the land from a relation as have no hope of ever owning it. ($80,000 price tag is a phenomenal  amount here).

The kayaks are 3,000$ dollars each and it is that that they have been saving for and he has discovered he can get them cheaper in Costa Rica. So his plans and dreams from last year have progressed. He is such a professional young man and has worked really hard with his language skills. He has been great helping me and has given me lots of tips, and ideas of apps to help practice. This was a truly magical day! When I got back the sun was shining so I sat by the pool and soaked up the atmosphere. My evening invititation had gone a bit pear shaped and I didn't fancy wandering around dark gravel roads looking for an unknown restaurant so finally declined and ate at the hotel.

I awoke this morning to find a very very large beetle on the bathroom floor, so picked it up with a towel to put outside, but it wouldn't let go of the towel so that also is now outside the door! It sounded as though it was squeaking at me!

How to appreciate life's luxuries!

On Monday I had lunch with Marjiory in San Carlos 

Then I made my way by panga to San Fernando, the main island of the Solentiname archipelago.

It was a bit bumpy in such a small boat and I wondered if my suitcase would weigh it down too much. However I arrived safely, was dropped off on the jetty, thinking 'what next'?. The captain called out to a young man to help with my luggage and then I was shown to my room in Paradise cabins a few yards away! According to my itinerary, this is the best hotel on the island. I have seen what are called guest houses, which appear very simple wooden buildings get are people's homes.

It transpired that the proprietor wasn't there at the time, but I found someone in the dining room to help. I think everyone was expecting me as there were only seven passengers on the boat and some were going elsewhere.

It is very peaceful here with beautiful views. Well except when the workmen get going next door with their cutting implement.

Everything here is quite different, no roads, no cars, no shops, no internet,no hot water and this morning no water at all! I had just got the shampoo on ready for a quick dunk when it petered out. So washed myself down with a damp towel and just about sorted my hair with the trickle! After breakfast the waitress brought a jug of purified water so I could wash my hands, whilst the proprietor was pumping up more water from the lake into the tank! However I did manage a cool glass of wine last night, the first night the bottle was off the shelf but yesterday it had been put in the cool box, I haven't seen a fridge! But there are mobile phones.

My host lent me a book to read about a chap from USA who came to live here for a year and gave a group of youngsters second hand cameras to document their lives. He lived with a family and later took a group of children to Managua where their work was exhibited. It must have been an overwhelming experience for the youngsters and pretty incredible and challenging for him. 

www.miradasdesolentiname.com

The food is good and prepared to order; they ask what you want and sometimes that's what you get, sometimes not. Yesterday after a decent lunch I suggested cheese on toast for supper but when I arrived they had no cheese, so I had some fish instead, beautifully presented with plantain and salsa. Actually plantain seems to be the staple food together with rice. I am trying not to eat too much as if is full of fibre and has after effects! Not good when you are going off on a boat and might not visit a loo for a while.! Some food is local and anything that is not has to wait until a boat goes to San Carlos I imagine,  and as food cannot easily be stored the menu revolves around what is availlable. Whilst I met another English family on my first day, since yesterday I have been the only guest! I understand more people arrive tomorrow for the Christmas period. The first day they suggested I eat at 7pm but today at 6.45 they knocked on my door and asked if I wanted to eat, the waitress apparently walks an hour to get home. It's dark and there are no lights! The dining room is open to the elements and has small ghekoes running up the walls! Sometimes the family come in and I wonder if they get my leftovers.....

I have had two days of trips courtesy of Nestor and Jimmy, father and son, who have a small panga. Boat is the only form of transport. I have seen no other motorised vehicles at all and the terrain would not be suitable for bicycles.

They are very pleasant, Jimmy, who is 13, tries to read the English names of the birds, so I help him with his English and he helps with my Spanish. Neither speak English, nor does anyone here. In fact I had to act as interpreter for the English family. The first day we went across the water to the San Juan river to the nature reserve, which borders Costa Rica, in fact we saw the public boats that come from Costa Rica, there are lots of military around, no doubt because it is near the border. The trip across was very rough and needed life jackets and oilskins, particularly since, when I got in there was a downpour but with an amazing rainbow as the sun was shining too!

We pootled through the waterways looking out for wildlife and Jimmy's attentiveness was rewarded with lots of sightings, including several snakes in trees and a wide range of birds and monkeys, osprey and kingfisher included. I have a list!

We stopped at the reserve at Guatuza for lunch where I had a guided tour with another guide. I could not go on the hanging bridges as the hurricane had severely damaged them. In fact there is a lot of devastation, with fallen trees.  Nestor's answer to dealing with them was to drive at them fast, unlike our Ecuadorean experience of sitting on a log whilst the boat went over the top! They eventually found a pair of boots big enough which I thought might be for snakes but it turned out we were wading through water in some places. We saw a caiman rearing area, a turtle rearing area and various other exciting things like a venomous spider and a golden orb spider and there were a lot of mosquitos, who manage to find bits of my skin on my fingers and sometimes get through my clothes and elastic sleeve! I am smothering myself with repellant.

An oriole snake.

Venomous spider.

At one point the guide grabbed my finger and inspected my rings, asking if they were gold. I thought that I might be found some months later minus my rings! But in fact he was very pleasant and after I gave him 2$ tip started giving me leaflets from the shelves that looked as if they had been there since the year dot! We had lunch in the local village, a large covered space in the small village community. The food was good but the loo was one of those not plumbed in, so you have to get a bucket of water from the tank outside. Good job there was no light, I would rather not inspect it too closely!

Today when I visited the museum for 2$, Yerba was showing me some carvings; she picked up a coconut shell and out jumped an enormous spider. No se preocupa, don't worry she said, it's only a tarantula, then continued to show me round the museum. I kept looking out behind to see where it had gone!

This morning, Nestor and Jimmy collected me earlier and we set off around the island; we stopped at a cave with petroglyphs, one of which could be seen from the boat. Owing to the recent weather it was too dangerous to go in. Last night it absolutely teamed down, so instead of the insect noises, it was the sound of torrential rain on the roof that I heard. I thought I might need a boat to get out! But then to find there was no water, I felt like running outside to rinse off in the rain, but thought I might upset the locals.

Later we visited the original artist, an elderly man in a wheelchair. He is the founder of the art naïf community here which now consists of three generation. Nestor told him I could understand if he spoke slowly and we had a chat. Unfortunately I had none of my paintings in my camera to show him. I bought a small canvas on the basis that the community needs the money, I can afford it, and it's a small contribution to make. Plus I will be unlikely to ever come here again. 

Later I saw his work in the local museum which focuses on the flora and fauna, the cycle of life, history and culture in a naïf style. It is very detailed and colourful. I walked along the path today where further artists exhibited but didn't visit as would have been embarrassed not to have made purchases. Some artists such as the proprietress, has had to stop painting for a while due to wrist problems and her sister Rosa who lives next door told me she suffers from asthma and now has to work in acrylics.

We also visited a community called Macarrón, on one of the other islands. They too had a small artists community,  small museum, library, and a church. The library, which is a very small building is the centre of the community, with internet access, classes and shelves of rather well used and old looking books. But at least they were used!

There was also more wild life today, both during the trip and on my own explorations of San Fernando this afternoon.

And some great views too!

I have to admit, this has been quite a culture shock. Costa Rica has become quite normal for me Ometepe last year was lovely, but this is really stepping back and questioning your expectations. It's a good learning opportunity with regard to your personal resourcefulness and hopefully will teach me not to get upset when the boiler breaks down or the utilities stop working! You just have to wipe the slate when it comes to expectations of normality! 

I am not sure the concept of jobs features here either. People work to mend things, catch and grow food, some of which they sell and some make craft items. When I walk in the afternoons, there is a lot of resting going on. My waitress prepares my food, then sits down waiting for the next thing that needs doing!

Ometepe here we come- they had hot water last year!

Wildlife list

Garcia capeverde-green heron

Zopilot-king vulture

Osprey

GUIs común-great kiskadee

Pescador colarejo-ringed kingfisher

Carpintero aledorado-golden olive woodpecker

Buco colarejo-white necked puff bird

Mica-oriole snake

Corredora-green headed streak snake

Hilo de oro- golden orb spider

Frigate bird

Capuchin monkey

Howler monkeys

Velaceous trogan

Grey hawk

Orange chinned parrot

Spotted sandpiper

Great banded ghekko

Hope I am not taking any passengers, as when I closed the lid of my case this morning a huuuge spider ran out  across the wall and behind the spare bed!