I left Monteverde and the beautiful view basking in sunshine, and set off with my driver Andres, a lovely young man. He was the same driver who collected me from San Ramon. It was a long drive owing to the roads. Tilarin, the first main town took about two hours and was dirt road all the way.
We passed through lovely countryside, at first farmland, very green with rolling hills. This was dairy farming and we saw a number of farmers with churns as well as the milk lorry. Then we moved into an area of coffee plantations with lots of fincas. This was where we first saw the wind turbines. Andres said there were a lot more now.
However apparently the farmers don't mind as they get rent that enables them to send their children to university, plus it supplements their farming and gives them low price electricity. Interesting to hear different perspectives. I heard the same in Nicaragua last year.
Then we saw a family of pisotees, (coatis) on the side of the road. Earlier we saw a coyote dash across the road which is apparently very rare, so this was a much nicer experience than going to San Jose and flying. Plus I had the benefit of lots of conversation and learning a lot more about the country.
We stopped off near Arenal at this lovely cafe for coffee and a snack. I have not had anything naughty since I left so indulged in coffee and a fresh made muffin with banana and encrusted with macadamia nuts, delicious. We sat outside overlooking the lake which is apparently largest man made lake in the Americas. When the water level drops you can see the church tower- a village was lost to create the dam. Here I had a brief chat with an American couple on the next table. On the way I had been looking out for the hotel with volcano views, that I stayed at on my first trip. Several looked likely but I must look it up.
We had a quick photo stop for the lake and the volcano. Monteverde is one if the mountains across the lake but we had wound our way round taking about three hours!
We had a quick photo stop for the iguanas and a loo stop. I know I stoped here on my first trip but I didn't like to tell him! We then passed through areas of fruit production with pineapples and oranges and also wood.
By this time it was 1pm, the time I had given Marjiory for us to meet. I didn't pick up her message as I could only get messages on wifi. Fortunately she sent one to Andres, so we were able to give her a revised eta. We were going to stop for lunch, but I suggested we should head straight to the border. I had brought nuts, an apple and biscuits and had plenty of water. Well I am not sure what the messages between them were but he put his foot down after that and fortunately the roads were better.
And suddenly there was the sign for the border and we had arrived at Las Tablillas. It was a series of prefab type buildings on the side of the road. Andres helped with my case into the first building. There were no instructions and all was a bit vague. Anyway I approached the counter and was sent back to complete a form, which I took back and I felt sure he stamped my passport as he sent me to pay my exit tax at another office. I would have been in a real pickle without Spanish. The office was locked, so a cleaner I asked went to find someone. So I payed him and they pointed for me to go through. So I walked through the building and down the road trundling my pink suitcase, past the soldiers with guns. They checked my passport and couldn't find the exit stamp. So I got sent back, trundling my suitcase again, to get the passport stamped. By this time I was dripping as it was soooo hot! Next time they let me through, so I showed my passport to someone at another checkpoint, the third time, then proceeded thinking that was it. However I was ushered into the Nicaraguan immigration next. Here I was asked where I was going , for how long, what was my marital status etc etc and where I was staying. So whilst trying to manage the luggage, keep tabs on what was happening with my passport and answer their questions in Spanish I had to find my itinerary with the hotel name on!
Then I had to pay to get in...at which point Marjiory came in and helped me through security with my luggage. We still had to show my passport twice more before finally getting in.
So it had been a long road between Costa Rica and Nicaragua!
Fortunately it wasn't far to San Carlos, which is just as well as the car had no seat belts and was a bit beaten up, no doubt due to the unmade roads, which they swerve along from side to side to avoid potholes. We passed cows being led on ropes and a lot of working people on horseback.
San Carlos has about two streets, a square and a market and the waterfront, but I have to wait til 3pm tomorrow for the ferry. I did a hasty freshen up and Marjiory gave me an orientation walk and advice about restaurants. They are all informal roadside affairs. I returned to the hotel on my own after a once round the block and had a cold shower, no hot water. When I asked it was something to do with not being able to control the heating. Actually it is very hot so not a problem, I just showered army fashion! The hotel is probably the best on offer in San Carlos but fairly basic, but clean.
This evening I found a restaurant on the square which cooked food fresh, so had chicken and chips, no veg just a salad garnish, so ate a slice of peeled cucumber and peeled the piece of tomato. I was offered beer, cocktails and spirits but chose the cappuccino as I thought it might have more sustenance! Well I have had several weeks of healthy diet so one day won't hurt.
I think this is where I am heading tomorrow. Marjiory is meeting me at midday to take my suitcase to the dock and we are having lunch at a restaurant with a lake view where it apparently is safe to eat salad. I shall still be circumspect about that!
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